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How i killed my logicboard and how i plan to revive it...
#1
First of all, this is my first post..
Great to have found this very informative forum! Lots of insider information in here Smile

Now i want to introduce you how i managed to kill my Davinci 2.0A logicboard and what my plans are to revive it.

Sorry if there are some flaws in my english Undecided

I wanted to flash repetier on my DaVinci 2.0A ...
Replayed the variant and USBCore as luc told on github..
Everthing worked fine until i screwed up things.
I also Loaded Fail-Safe Settings and unpowered the printer after 5 sec. or so..
That was my fault misleading to the other fails i commited...
I wasnt able to move any axis nor the autocalibration...
So i reflashd it and again no sign of life exept the display working fine and no black bars or other failures...
At some point (at 3 am) i had trouble to get the printer listet under the COM Ports, wether as Arduino Due nor Bossac...
Trying to erase the chip (Datasheet-> Pinout etc...) i managed to get contact to the pins located next to erase..
So far so good, i went to bed...

Messing around with the Board this afternoon i realised there is still no COM Port visible at the Device Manager.
Windows chimes if i plug and unplug.. Doing a dmesg on one of my linux system there is nothing mentioned about any USB Device attached.. That lead me to the point, there is a massive fault..

I even tried to hookup a Serial Converter to UART_MAIN, no sign of life there...
The ATSAM3X8 gets really hot compared to an Arduino Due with the same CPU laying around.

My conclusion at this moment is, that i managed to kill the ATSAM3X8...

Im planning to flash the Arduino Due, desolder the Chip and replace the one on the logicboard at the printer...

There are a few things im not sure about...

Do i need to flash a bootloader on the "new" chip?
Shall i do this under Arduino IDE or with Bossac when the Chip is inside its new environment?

If someone could point me out other things to care about at the process mentioned above im planning to do, please let me know !

Hope to see some posts here, maybe i just found an affordable way to revive killed boards...

Greetz, Stephan
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#2
sorry, you say you kill your chip / board and you mention everything (screen, light, menu) is working but USB ?

I would suggest you to erase EEPROM.bin from SDCard and redo the load fail safe and wait 30s before power off the printer.


This would solve your axis movement 

About port in windows, if windows chime it means it detect it - so check if you have arduino drivers installed and check if any unknown device popup when you plug printer 

Flashing repetier won't kill the chip even you flash in wrong way - hardware issue only will do

or I misunderstood your problem
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#3
(11-13-2016, 08:13 PM)luc Wrote: sorry, you say you kill your chip / board and you mention everything (screen, light, menu) is working but USB ?

I would suggest you to erase EEPROM.bin from SDCard and redo the load fail safe and wait 30s before power off the printer.


This would solve your axis movement 

About port in windows, if windows chime it means it detect it - so check if you have arduino drivers installed and check if any unknown device popup when you plug printer 

Flashing repetier won't kill the chip even you flash in wrong way - hardware issue only will do

or I misunderstood your problem

Sorry for bad wording,  which was misleading... 
I have a chime,  but no function at all.. 
Black Bars, no LCD, no keys, no Connection and hot SAM3X8...

Everything except axis moving was fine...  until i touched the pins next to Erase pin on the AVR... 
I'm pretty sure i killed the AVR..  
Maybe tomorrow i will have some time to exchange the CPU...  Any suggestions on the bootloader question? 

Thank you for the quick reply so far! 
Greetz Stephan
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#4
Ho yes this is more clear now

No, normaly no need to reflash bootloader


Good luck to change the chip, hope you can fix your board
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#5
(11-13-2016, 10:04 PM)luc Wrote: Ho yes this is more clear now

No, normaly no need to reflash bootloader


Good luck to change the chip, hope you can fix your board

OK,  thanks!  Will u keep udpated...  And try to drink less coffee at work tomorrow for better soldering xD
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#6
Yehaaaw! 
Replaced the ATSAM and its running fine! 
Still have some issues with the Display and the OK Key,  but thats due to too less solder... 
Did a quick test by heating the extruders,  bed and moving the axes! 
Everything looks fine and works as exected!
Hints for others reading this: Replacing the ATSAM is very difficult! If you don't have experience in soldering QFP and small devices in common > Don't even think about it! 
If someone needs help,  please contact me...  
Greetz,  Stephan
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#7
Be careful about removing the chip. I use a hot air workstation to do so. If you don't have a hot air station your likelihood of success is small.  To install the new chip I tack it down on a few pins and then bridge all pins with Solder.  Remove excess Solder (and subsequent bridges)  with Solder wick. There's a thread here somewhere where I documented changing my own chip. 

However ,  I would check the device id when connected to device manager .  It's still possible you just have a driver issue . 

Kieth

I see you posted as i was typing.  Glad you have it working . :Smile

Kieth
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#8
[quote pid='18190' dateline='1479162295']

I see you posted as i was typing.  Glad you have it working . :Smile

Kieth
[/quote]

Everything works fine except the OK Key...  
As far as i can see its defined as FLAG_OK to Pin 1... But this one is connected..  Probed it... 
Another question: Do i have to set the offsets for z probe pin and 2nd extruder in the eeprom? 

Soldering this kind of chip only works with hot air  ..

Greetz
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#9
Which reference are you using MCU ? or connector ? Ok is not MCU pin 1 but 110
about virtual EEPROM, yes, everything is in it
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#10
(11-17-2016, 09:14 AM)luc Wrote: Which reference are you using MCU ? or connector ? Ok is not MCU pin 1 but 110
about virtual EEPROM, yes, everything is in it
Im using the ATSAM and those pins as reference.. 
So what do I need to set apart from bed calibration? Is there somewhere a documentation out,  DaVinci 2.0A Duo specific? 
Thank you so far Smile

Greetz Stephan
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#11
Ok button is pin 76 in variant.cpp, which it is PA27, which is when I check http://www.atmel.com/ru/ru/Images/Atmel-...asheet.pdf the pin 110

You can also check the pinout.xls on my github : https://github.com/luc-github/Repetier-F...inout.xlsx
So I do not know where this pin 1 come from 

About calibration for second extruder offset, there is no "official" one as far I know - I shared my method using traffic cones several times on this forum, but was a while now, the default values are the ones of my 2.0 so print the cones and adjust them is the way to go
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#12
(11-17-2016, 12:35 PM)luc Wrote: Ok button is pin 76 in variant.cpp, which it is PA27, which is when I check http://www.atmel.com/ru/ru/Images/Atmel-...asheet.pdf the pin 110

You can also check the pinout.xls on my github : https://github.com/luc-github/Repetier-F...inout.xlsx
So I do not know where this pin 1 come from 

About calibration for second extruder offset, there is no "official" one as far I know - I shared my method using traffic cones several times on this forum, but was a while now, the default values are the ones of my 2.0 so print the cones and adjust them is the way to go

Dumb me, hadn't in mind, that we use a variant for the pinout...
Just searched the arduino sketch ...
Resoldered some of the pins and everything works great..
Another hint to others... Don't use cheap chinese flux for soldering, it's crap!

Right now im calibrating the bed and works great after loading the initial parameters from config.h
I'm really looking forward to do my first print with Repetier flashed!
Hopefully i will find time next weekend!
Thank you so much for all the work and effort you put into this project, it's simply amazing!

Greetz, Stephan
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