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Laser Mod for 1.0
#1
Has anyone else done a laser mod to their Davinci?

I have it up and running, and it wasnt all that hard.

This is with a red laser. I have already replaced it with a 2 watt blue laser.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0J2lQoHnR4


Kieth

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#2
Nice Big Grin
What pin did you used for laser ?
What blue laser did you used ?

And also what software did you used ? 

I am looking for a reference to build mine Angel
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#3
I set the extruder cooling fan to PWM in firmware. I placed the TTL input to the laser parallel to the fan.  ebay item 331616652602 is the module I used. Search more then just this auction, its available from several sellers. What I learned is if you want to etch paper and wood you DO NOT! want a more powerful laser. With 2 watts it is VERY fine line between mark paper and cut paper. It will cut thin plywood, colored plastic, etc with no problem, just multiple passes. To be honest, I was wanting a 40 watt engraver/cutter, but I am now realizing for engraving 40 watts is really too much for the wood items and phone cases I want to do. Your results may vary, but it is for sure an inexpensive mod!! L)
 
In octoprint I set M106 S255 as the beginning g code prior to starting a print. This is to make sure the extruder cooling fan runs during 3d prints.  The first line of sliced (cura) 3d print g code is always M106 S256 to again make sure the fan is on. 

In my laser Gcode I set the M107 to turn the laser off and M106 SXXX to turn it on to vary intensity. The first line of laser code is now always M107 to turn the laser OFF since octoprint is going to turn it on. This result in a very quick flash of the laser when the print first starts. Not an issue since the print always starts at X0 Y0. 

I also use a thick piece of wood to make sure my laser does not shine on the glass bed. I position my item on the block, set M106 S1 for minimum laser power, disable stepers after homing x/y, and then manually move the carriage so the laser dot is at the corner of my item being engraved. Hope this makes sense.

A toggle switch on the lasers power supply turns enables or locks out the laser.

YES, this is a *stupid* way because if you accident enable layer cooling in your slice the fan might turn off and cause the hot end to overheat, resulting in who knows what. Long term, I intend to place the fan and laser on the same supply using a DPDT switch to either power the laser or power the fan. 

However, it is simple. Switch ON, run laser code engraving. Turn laser power toggle switch off, start 3d printing...

Ill youtube some video of the blue burning as soon as I get time. Here is a quick sample of what the blue is doing. Dont judge to harsh. This picture of my Son wearing a leaf crown is less than 3 inches by 3 inches for the entire block of wood. :-)

   


Kieth




BTW, The vertical dark lines  are caused by the grains of wood. Think of it as character. LOL

Kieth
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#4
wow excellent! looks realy nice  Cool
repetier 0.92.10 support laser command if you want to try

I have ordered a smaller laser to start, a 12V/500mW as I had no idea of power need and this one was cheap, but still waiting for it...
 
I plan to use this software https://github.com/openhardwarecoza/LaserWeb2 because seems popular
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#5
Luc - For software there are a few things you must do. 

If desired, You could modify repetier to buffer fan commands. this would prevent the following I am going to describe. It would also allow faster engraving, but that isnt a big deal to me because this is very low volume personal items I am doing.

Because repetier buffers moves but not fan commands, it is possible that multiple fan commands can be executed while a move is still occurring. This results in unpredictable lines and smudges. The fix is to engrave slow (pictures 20mm, engraving you have to experiment) and add M400 before *every* laser command.

Inkscape, J Photonics plug in for engraving.

http://nebarnix.com/img2gco/   will generate picture gcode. I suggest move and burn speed be the same, I am using 200.

Questions, just ask. Smile

Kieth

(06-16-2016, 12:45 AM)luc Wrote: wow excellent! looks realy nice  Cool
repetier 0.92.10 support laser command if you want to try

I have ordered a smaller laser to start, a 12V/500mW as I had no idea of power need and this one was cheap, but still waiting for it...
 
I plan to use this software https://github.com/openhardwarecoza/LaserWeb2 because seems popular

500mw is the red laser I was using. It works great on dark plastic. I had mixed result on wood - some wood it seems no marking, some the marks were black. Some colored paper it could cut and engrave pictures no problem, other paper it would not do anything to the paper. Those problems dont exist so much with then blue laser.

Im SKEERED (LOL!) to try another version repetier, I have much custom stuff done to this one that is not published. You know how that is. But perhaps I should. What is the difference exactly?

Kieth
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#6
Thanks a lot for sharing Keith - I like it
You may try to add the 400 command to avoid movement before applying fan command
M400 - Wait until move buffers empty.

On my side to avoid this, I think I will use laser configuration of repetier (https://github.com/luc-github/Repetier-F...#L883-L910) because I will build a dedicated cnc as I want to continue to print with my Duo, and I know me, swapping extruder with laser time 2 time, I am sure I will break something Blush
Murphy law is my daily reference  Undecided 

Will share also when I got everything and started experimentating, I hope to get as good results as yours  Big Grin
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#7
(06-16-2016, 01:20 AM)luc Wrote: Thanks a lot for sharing Keith - I like it
You may try to add the 400 command to avoid movement before applying fan command
M400 - Wait until move buffers empty.

On my side to avoid this, I think I will use laser configuration of repetier (https://github.com/luc-github/Repetier-F...#L883-L910) because I will build a dedicated cnc as I want to continue to print with my Duo, and I know me, swapping extruder with laser time 2 time, I am sure I will break something Blush
Murphy law is my daily reference  Undecided 

Will share also when I got everything and started experimentating, I hope to get as good results as yours  Big Grin


see above, already adding m400 Smile

keep us posted!

Kieth
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#8
Yes sorry I missed that in your post
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#9
Here is the blue laser in action.  This is 100% power doing an engraving of a star trek scene.  Again, on a 3x3 block of wood. There is an interesting artifact of dots-- this is not visible to my naked eye. I believe this to be caused by the stepper motors rotation. YES, I do believe engraving depth and darkness of the lines are that sensitive.

(Again, think of the magnification of this pictue, the original engraving is 3 inches by 3 inches... This block looks incredible in person, biased as I might be.)

https://youtu.be/2Mm2G4kqKcM









   

Kieth
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#10
yes looks this 100$ laser worth the price - good job
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#11
(06-16-2016, 10:30 AM)luc Wrote: yes looks this 100$ laser worth the price - good job


It is well worth it.  Thanks! 



One serious caution,  and it probably goes without saying, but don't even ever think about leaving this laser unattended while your engraving or burning something. I have successfully set paper and blocks of wood on fire already on purpose as an experiment to see what happens if anything hangs up. Trust me it will burn! Honestly, this is a very dangerous modification not only because of the danger to one's eyes if you're not wearing laser safety glasses (or put a shield around the printer)  but the fire risk is very very real. I can't stress this enough. Serious,  get the correct safety glasses and don't let anyone in the room without them while this thing is running. 

Kieth
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#12
Agreed safety first
I have ordered glasses according the laser I bought and I am still checking what enclosure would be the best to avoid reflection and burn.
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#13
Interesting mod for the 3D printer. The thought of being able to switch from laser to extrusion is very appealing. 

Below is link to a video of my laser cutter. It was built mostly with 3D printed parts--well the engineering side of it anyway. It uses a 2W blue laser controlled by an Arduino Uno with a gcode shield. One major issue with my design is a lack of a Z axis. Besides marking thicker objects, that is important for cutting in multiple passes. You want to drop the laser just a hair on each pass.

I filmed this about the time you guys were chatting in this thread. Since then I have tweaked it a bit but not a lot. It works really well. In the video I am cutting some ebony veneer, about .5mm thick. Speed is 60, at about 90% power it cuts in one pass. Yes I am marking up my machine. I have added a replaceable panel since this video.

I use Inkscape and the jtronics plugin to create the gcode, then gcodesender to push it out to the laser. I do not have to edit the gcode at all. I have had problems with the jtronics plugin in Inkscape on Windows, but the exact same plugin works fine in Linux. No idea why, I found something that works so I stopped looking.

Always always always wear safety glasses. You can lose an eye in an instant playing with lasers.

https://youtu.be/H2_ZypqfzPE
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