Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Project Time: Upgrade a Davinci 1.0A making it worth a damn
I’m making this post for two reasons one this modification list is quite long so I was going to have to make a document anyway why not make it public? And for sanity check reasons. So here goes!
So I’m fed up with my Davinci 1.0A printer that’s hardware wise still stock. I am running Repetier .92 but I waste more filament and time trying to get prints right and of good quality (I’m a perfectionist) that I’m over this printer. I will say for a cheap printer and I wanted a cheap one to learn and it’s taught me a lot about FDM printing. So it’s definitely served it’s purpose, BUT I have done quite a bit of internet surfing and forum trolling to compile a list of modifications I can do that will drastically improve the quality of my prints and hopefully make the Davinci printer at least a descent useable printer. I know, I know, I could go buy a new printer, but I work overseas in the Middle East and this gives me something to do on the weekends so yay project time! I’ll keep y’all posted on my adventures all the parts/hardware should be here in the next week or so (FPO mail is sooo reliable! :/ )

1. Replace the Glass with borosilicate glass: (Mine is cracked and chipped)
2. Print & Install an E3D 12v universal (with Bowden add-ons): (I'm using a direct drive e3d setup temporarily to get the quality of the prints I want from the rest of the mods)
3. Spend a day calibrating the printer most likely!
4. Print Bowden E3D Carriage and use oilite 8x14x20 bushing instead of LM8UU bearings (for noise mostly).
5. Print & Install this x axis tensioner
6. Print & Install bed leveling screws
7. Print Bowden extruder swivel
8. Print Neustruder Bowden extruder
9. Print & Install two of these (with variable resistors) so there are Fans on both sides of the printer for PLA and Ninajaflex prints
10. Print because I hate having the filament hanging off the side of the printer…
11. Install mods 4, 7, 8, and 10.
12. Re-flash Repetier .92 to repurpose the 5v stock fan as a layer fan.
13. Spend another day calibrating the printer and this time trying out new speeds etc...
14. Print & Install
15. Print, Install & Test because it intrigues me.
P.S. If anyone is running the E3D direct drive and/or Bowden carriage could you please show me your settings you using it will give me a leg up when it comes to testing and calibration time. Thanks guys!
nice project,

i will follow and do also some of the tweaks.

please post some print results

STEP #1.

Ok so my New Borosilicate glass came in and I put it in it was pretty much self explanatory as far as installation goes and took me 10-15minutes. Unscrew the print bed leveling screws, unscrew the bed glass mounting screws remove old stuff, put in the new, re-screw everything in/down. Then I used a feeler gauge .08mm with the steppers disengaged and the bed/extruder heated to re-level the bed. I got excited and forgot to take pictures of the installation process but I swear it was really easy. It may look a little cloudy because I just put a fresh coat of hairspray on it so I can print a test print (now that the bed is fixed) that I'm going to print a test print for you guys every time I make the major changes. Stay tuned for the stock Davinici stock (repetier .92) print vs the e3d direct drive Print vs the e3d Bowden print!

I went with because it's a guy or gal on this forum that cuts this high quality glass (borosilicate glass has a low thermal expansion making it less prone to chipping/cracking) puts the heater bed on it and the correct connector for davinci printers.

P.S. I've inserted this photo right side up twice and it's still sideways I give up...

[Image: IMG_1009.JPG]
looks really good Smile

i ordered for my DaVinci....

will test next week
That bed actually looks really awesome if this borosilicate glass ever cracks maybe I'll give it a go.
So now that my bed is fixed I wanted to print a test print with my normal slic3r settings so that I'll have something to compare with as I upgrade this printer. For the sake of the comparison I will not be changing my settings throughout the process. So attached is my settings I use and the pictures of the test prints. Sorry black filament is all i had at the moment.[Image: IMG_1025.JPG][Image: IMG_1031.JPG][Image: IMG_1026.JPG][Image: IMG_1029.JPG][Image: IMG_1027.JPG][Image: IMG_1030.JPG]
Your Mod/Upgrade list looks really good. I've been thinking the whole table assembly needs a complete re-design. I think the 8mm vertical guide rods are not stiff enough, and there is a lot of deflection. I also think that the bushings on mine are loose. The bed support structure is not stiff enough either. I think thermal distortion of the bed support structure contributes to loss of calibration, and warping on the prints.

My redesign would address: 1)stiffness and motion accuracy in the vertical ways 2)rigidity and consistency in the platform

Sorry it's been so long since I updated this. I'm at an FPO address and it took a bit longer to get my mail these last few weeks! Finally got a bunch of my parts in this weeks so here goes. I $h17 show that is my E3D upgrade.

I printed out the Direct feed E3D mounts with my stock Davinci 1.0A (repetier .92) the prints came out ok, but I had to sand down the back side of the mount to get it to fit right.

I used Steven-NE-UK youtube videos and the E3d wiki for the assembly of the nozzle it was really pretty easy. The thermistor is a bit of a B to get seated deep enough in the heater block but everything worked out pretty easy for the most part. As for the assembly of the stock modified carriage I again used Steven-NE-UK's youtube videos. The only problem was I forgot to order 30mm M3 screws.... Since I didn't have ANY 30mm M3 screws so I used a drill and cut down the mounting bracket to use a 25mm M3 screw (I don't recommend it), but it works and I was in business!

My prints were turning out TERRIBLE right after i made the switch. It was like each layer wasn't stacking up properly (on a single wall calibration) cube throwing the whole print off AND the infill was pushing out so much the center of my prints were higher than the walls.
(Pictures of the sloppy single wall print below sorry i don't have any of the bad prints of the infill issue anymore)

So after a lot of reading (totally not during working hours) I found a few solutions. first I calibrated my X/Y/Z axis steps per mm which DRASTICALLY improved my prints and i didn't have much faith going into it that it would help at all. (I used this instructables ) send me a message if you want the excel spreadsheet I used to calculate the new steps per mm. Basically, I kapton taped a pen to my extruder and put masking tape over the print bed and commanded it to move then used a micrometer to measure the pen marks, then used that tutorial to figure out the new values.

First I checked my extrusion multiplier by measuring 100mm from the top of the extruder and the commanded 100mm of extruded filament and it was dead on.... so at this point I was at a loss.

Then I printed a single wall 20mm cube, and my single wall thickness was somthing like .76 with a .4 mm nozzle... So did some more reading and found out that a .3 layer height print should have a extrution width of 1.2x the nozzle size and .2 layer height print should have a extrution width of 1.4x the nozzle size. (PLEASE CORRECT ME IF THIS IS WRONG). anyway I did the math on what i needed to reduce my extrution multiplier by and it ended up being .92.

Low and behold fantastic prints!

Side Note:
In order to get the same print quality I have to print at 255 C instead of 230 C I believe this to be a thermistor issue as the used a multi-meter with a heat probe and when my Davinci reads 255C the multi-meter reads 232C. Oh well other than swapping the E3D thermistor for the stock one I have no idea how to fix this I tried re-flashing repetier host but the extruder temp just read *def* when I set the thermistor type to "8".

Step 4:
currently printing stay tuned!

Step 5:
Printed the x-axis pully before i fine tuned my extrusion mutliplier it came out OK (i may re-print it someday) and i had to use a dremel to get it to slide in smoothly and I had to put the wheel in the freezer for 20 minutes (trick I learned from the helicopter mechanics I used to work with) to get the bearing the thingiverse page said to buy to fit on the wheel. but it works really well and I actually noticed that the printer shakes considerably less during honeycomb infill than it did with the other x-axis pully. (pictures below)

Step 6:
I printed these out as well before I fine tuned my extrution multiplyer putting the screws in was a tight fit but i pressed them in and then used a M3 screw and washer to level out the nut i pressed inside then used a dremel to flatten out the surface. Finally glued the nutz in place with some Kragle (krazy glue). (pictures below)

MORE TO COME! *Sorry this pose was a bit scatter brained Jack and Cokes are great for celebrating good prints! not so good for forum right ups*

(Also: I haven't forgotten about printing a frog an a test print before upgrade to a Bowden extruder give me a few days to get the pictures up).[Image: IMG_1275.JPG][Image: IMG_1274.JPG][Image: IMG_1276.JPG][Image: IMG_1277.JPG][Image: IMG_1278.JPG][Image: IMG_1281.JPG][Image: IMG_1279.JPG][Image: IMG_1290_2015-12-03.JPG]
I don't really think it's the rods I actually thing a lot of the printers quality comes from it's actual construction it's rather flimsy and tends to shake a lot when printing at conservative by reasonable print speeds. Especially mine which is on a small table next to my desk. I have noticed the carriage inside shacks a bit since I modified the carriage to take an E3D v6 nozzle. I think this might be because the carriages center of gravity has been raised about an inch off the rods.
Here's the table i used to calculate my new X/Y/Z steps per mm:

[Image: tab_jpg.png]

Here's the video of the my new found E3D v6 WOBBLE I should have taken a slow motion video stock to compare...[Image: IMG_1302.JPG]
Step 10:

For those of you who are considering the internal spool hanger, it's awesome. I had to modify the hanger a bit I didn't like the filament cleaner on it and on my first print the spool rubbed against the side of the printer (on the inside above where the cables are) Soo I re-positioned the clamp and so that the spool fit better and doesn't touch the sides of the printer for the most part. I also added an angled filament ring which relieves a bit of tension on the filament so it's doesn't have to make the 90 degree turn. Anyway Pictures below and I attached the modified filament hanger and .skp files.

As for the install I used a dremel, dikes, and some sand paper to cut away the plastic on the back panel then used a dremel with some sanding clay to smooth out a bit. I couldn't be happier.

(Update: Also made it a thingiverse re-mix page[Image: IMG_0985.JPG][Image: IMG_0986.JPG][Image: IMG_1308.JPG][Image: IMG_1310.JPG][Image: IMG_1311.JPG][Image: IMG_1309.JPG]
Have you been able to try this?

Forum Jump:

Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)