Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Is Buildtak any good?
#1
I was wondering if anyone has tried this and if so is it worth it?

Thanks

http://www.buildtak.eu/product/buildtak-...t-surface/
Reply
#2
Buildtak works good, its going to be hard for you to calibrate your bed to accomodate though, if youre on stock firmware. I personally didnt think it was any better than painters tape or hairspray for PLA though, is alot easier to clean up especially if you have a couple and just swap out the tak and move onto the next print.
Reply
#3
I haven't tried pla. I've only used abs.

Thanks
Reply
#4
Sorry if I made a misleading comment....These other bed adhesion methods are mostly broken out for PLA, so thats why I mentioned. The issue with Tak on stock firmware is the bed calibration, not so much the filament. Tak will add height but the davinci firmware doesnt probe the bed, it probes the clips on the bed, and that will throw off the calibration as the bed is actually higher than the firmware thinks it it. You could get around that by manually calibrating. Im actually suprised you are having adhesion issues with ABS, since it should be on a 90c bed. These other methods are generally used when you dont have a heated bed. How does your first layer look close up? Is it flat, or are the edges rounded? Its easiest to see if you put out a nozzle primer line down b4 you start the object, cant remember if stock does that by default. If your first layer has rounded edges, you arent close enough to the bed for the first layer, hence the adhesion issues.
Reply
#5
If I use buildtak I will put it under the calibration surfaces. That way it will calibrate right. My first layer looks great but I get warping on bigger prints. Usually the raft helps with this but not always.
Reply
#6
Steve, thats a good indicator and the main frustration with ABS. You will still have this issue with build tak, and could possibly strip gears as your nozzle will now meet more resistance, versus knocking the print off the bed. Delamination can be caused by the print cooling down too fast between layers. If you are printing with the top and door closed, and the sides on.....try printing a [strike]brim[/strike] skirt with the same layer height as your print..ie 74 total layers, [strike]brim[/strike] skirt for 74 layers. Ive had to do this with bigger models that insisted on delaminating. What the high [strike]brim[/strike] skirt is doing is keeping heat in, helping reduce delamination so it doesnt curl upwards and snag the nozzle. I didnt stay on stock for very long at all, so I cant remember if setting a [strike]brim[/strike] skirt height is an option. If not you could make a [strike]brim[/strike] skirt and add it to your .stl, if you know your way around modeling apps.
Reply
#7
I cant seem to keep my replies to a single post today, sorry if you are getting email notifications....Here is a good explanation, even though its for different software, the concepts remain the same.

https://www.simplify3d.com/support/tutor...and-brims/
Reply
#8
I used Buildtak for a few months (and still have some left...) and in my experience it works OK with ABS, but only when it's in pristine condition. As soon as you've printed a few times over the same area, the adherence will begin to degrade and eventually there might be marks and holes if abused a bit when removing printed objects. In my experience it didn't last anywhere near what they advertise. With PLA it didn't seem to work so well, but I didn't try much because blue painter's tape works SO much better and is SO much cheaper that it just wasn't worth it.

Eventually I stopped using buildtak in favor of kapton tape + a light layer of ABS juice applied with a brush. This is what has given me the best results, by far, and also the cheapest method. But let me tell you something: with ABS you will always get curling and/or warping, no matter what. Sure, you can fight it with skirts, mouse ears and such, but those are just hacks for a problem that will never be gone for good and will often end up ruining your print sooner or later. And if it's not that it'll be delamination or some other shit. IMHO the ABS is a material that sucks for 3D printing, and hence I now alwayse use PLA if possible. It's soooooo much easier and nicer to print with! It doesn't have any of those issues.
Reply
#9
Did you modify your printer for pla or just change the temperatures?

Thanks
Reply
#10
Not sure who you were asking, but the Davinci needs modified for PLA. Heat creep up the break is a huge issue with the stock extruder. I myself went with an e3dv6 and a front fan and never looked back. I withheld suggesting that as it can be irritating to be told to firmware flash and hardware mod for every question asked. Try a skirt if you can, the learning experience from trying to get big ABS models to print on stock is invaluable, and will come in handy if you upgrade. Sometimes you need to print ABS, whether for applications requiring strength or heat resistance.
You may be able to get away with PLA and an oiler on stock firmware, but you will still need a hardware mod whether its a new hotend or a cartridge resetter.

Also, give "natural" ABS a shot. By natural I mean no dyes, the filament looks like bone/ivory. For some reason I can print ABS parts with natural filament that I cant with colored filament. And black, forget about it. I couldnt even print small models with black on stock firmware/hardware. On stock firmware you would insert a cartridge like normal, but load natural filament externally and thread it through the normal path.
Reply
#11
I use my arduino to reset the chip. I have some black filament and I can't get it to print on higher settings. What do you mean by oiler? I think I will give nature a try.

Thanks
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)