I had a similar issue. I increased the temperature from 210 to 225 (I'm printing with Colorfabb PLA/PHA) and reduced retraction to 1mm (from 2mm) and the issue disappeared. I don't know if the temperature of retraction was the issue. I'am using the same mod and because e3d and stock thermistor may have slight differences the actual temperature may be different from what the da vinci is reporting. I have no IR thermometer to check. Anyway, now I have been able to do more than 8h PLA print without an issue (using layer fan off course). Also, I'am presuming that you are powering your e3d fan from 12V source? If not, this is the cause of your problem, 5v does not cut it for the extruder fan, it needs to be 12V.
I am using a dedicated 12v Power supply to feed just the E3D fan and the 12v layer cooling fan. I will try increasing the temp to 255 and see how it goes. I also have already reduced the retraction down to .5mm
Pay attention to when it clicks. Is it clicking right after it did a retraction? Or does it start clicking in the middle of a long extrusion line?
I am pretty sure it happens right after retraction. This is one of the reasons that i changed the retract setting from 2mm to 0.5mm. I may also test with retract disabled completely.
Increasing temp may help then. I have a theory on this but I haven't had time to prove it yet.... when I print PLA on a slightly modified stock hot end, I only have problems with retraction. When I unload the filament the part that was in the extruder comes out as a hollow tube. My thought is that I've actually managed to cool the thermal tube TOO MUCH. As a result, the outer diameter of the PLA is sticking inside the thermal barrier.
Unless you have a wicked fan on your hot end barrel heat sink, raising the temperature wont help much and probably make it worse. I run my PLA at 180c with an 11 cfm fan directly on the barrel heat sink at 100%. The trick with PLA is to keep it cool right up to the heating element or it will jam endlessly. It takes the heat time to creep up the barrel that's why you get some good print time out of it before it jams.
I was able to do a full 2h print using 250c.
I will try to do a larger print and see if this continues to work.
A user on soliforums states that I should not be using table 5 with the E3D, but other threads are conflicted on what table to use.
I use the table #5 on my 1.0 and it works fine.
I have a 1.0, with repetier 92, e3d V6, no tables changed, 215 degrees, And i never had a pla jam ;-)
Retracties 3mm 100mms
Is the E3D heat-sink pretty much cold to the touch when the jam happens? It should be. If it gets hot then you have a cooling issue.
It looks like it was a cooling issue. The mod I am uses using the original Carriage. THe bottom half of the cooling fan is blocked by the carraige (there is very little room between the fan and the wall of the carriage). I dremmeled that out and I am printing at 235 now. The Filament I am using reccomends 230, so its better now.
Honestly thinking of building myself a Prusa i3 Rework, and using the e3d on that and going back to stock on the davinci.
It may be the brand of PLA I am using. The spool states that the recommended temp for it is 230C. I'll get some more PLA (a different brand) and see if I can lower the temp to something like 190C
You may not be fighting temp. I'm using the same setup and my always works, no matter what PET profile started jamming like crazy. In my case I had gotten a little overzealous on pressing the first layer onto the glass and caused a back pressure jam. When I disassembled the e3d to clear it, I replaced the pfte tubing. After days of pulling my hair out, I found two problems. I had not cut the bottom of the pfte tubing completely straight, and the big one....the nozzle had plastic stuck on the threads and felt like it tightened correctly, but was not flush against the heat break. This combo was causing me to jam without even attempting to print anything.
Looking at e3d forums you will see how sensitive the thing is. Even having the fan missing the bottom heatsink fin can cause horrible jamming. After reading through ppls problems, I feel very lucky to have gotten it assembled correctly the first round.
Also ensure you aren't causing your own back pressure buildup by starting the first layer too low. You see this after a couple layers with filament building up on the nozzle and travel trails on the layer surface.