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Print bed leveling mod. 4-corner adjustment.
#1
Could never understand why there is only one thumb-wheel in the front to adjust the bed height. One corner of the glass on my stock bed was sagging way down (front right), and there was nothing I could do to adjust it. So, to make the long story short, I made a few easy to bolt on parts that now allow for individual height adjustment on all 4 corners.[Image: IMG_0675.jpg][Image: IMG_0676.jpg]
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#2
Lowering back left screw should raise the front right corner, but you probably tried that already. This is nice, you gonna share models and instruction?
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#3
a plan is defined by 3 points not 4, if the bed is flat, it is enough, if the bed is not flat, yes the 4 corners screws may help to compensate, but it may also break the glass if too much pressure.
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#4
Exactly, this. The OP's problem is not a leveling issue, it's that the bed or the glass is warped and thus no longer flat. See http://www.protoparadigm.com/news-update...d-printer/
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#5
Isn't that how the 2.0s do it?

http://images.studica.com/images/product.../da_22.jpg
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#6
2 in front, 1 in middle, none on back for 2.0,
https://github.com/luc-github/Repetier-F.../issues/81
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#7
Ahh, looked like 4 points from the smaller pictures.
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#8
You should post this up to thingeverse! I would love to get at least one of my davinci's setup with this for the engineering expo on thursday!
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#9
Hello guys.
Sorry, I could not check back earlier. If anyone is still interested, I will try to upload the hardware list, directions and files here sometime this weekend.
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#10
Quote:Hello guys.
Sorry, I could not check back earlier. If anyone is still interested, I will try to upload the hardware list, directions and files here sometime this weekend.

I am very interested here! I will just need the files I can figure out the rest lol. Thanks again Anton!
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#11
here it goes
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#12
Well...
Just spend an hour writing everything up, hit Submit, everything uploaded but I don't actually see it. FML :angry:
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#13
Here we go once again. lol.

Mod at your own risk. Due to print quality and small tolerances between parts -some filing/sanding may be required.
I assume no responsibility for any damaged parts or any other issues associated with this mod.
If anyone has questions, or if I missed something, please don't hesitate to ask.

Files can be found here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:769807

Parts:
SAE hardware:
6-32 bolts 1/2" long x 4
6-32 countersunk bolts 1/2" long x 4
6-32 bolts 2" long x 2
6-32 flat washer x 8
6-32 nuts x 10
paper clip or similar to prevent the bolts used to adjust height from turning while adjusting bed height.
5mm x 20mm spring. can be found here: http://www.amazon.com/Silver-Tone-Metal-...0mm+spring


Tools:
9/64" drill bit
countersink bit
flat bit screwdriver
drill/dremel
super glue or equivalent.

Directions:
All of the parts should be used as guides to drill all necessary holes

1.You will need to remove the build platform glass, fire proof mat, temp probe and set them aside.
2.remove the top half of the build platform (the part that floats on 3 springs)
3.put both 2" bolts in the "bed level mod" part and secure them in place with a piece of paperclip and some glue.



4.drill 4 holes for mounting "bed level mod" part to the top half of the build platform . Countersink the 4 holes so that the bolts would not interfere with glass later.





5.press 4 nuts into the "bed level mod" part, and bolt it to the underside of the top half of the build platform using 4 x 1/2" long countersunk bolts. (I used much longer bolts that I already had on hand and cut them down to size using a Dremel later)



6.fit the "bed level mod adjuster holder" parts to the underside of the bottom half of the build platform, drill 4 holes, and bolt them on using 4 x 1/2" long bolts, washers, nuts (I was able to do all of this without having to remove the bottom part of the platform from the printer. But it was a bit of a pain due to having so little room to drill holes from the bottom)





7.press 2 nuts into the top of "bed level mod- adjuster screw" parts. Press and glue the cap on.



8.re-assemble the print platform. Don't forget to install new springs.




Enjoy.
Anton.[Image: IMG_0652.jpg][Image: IMG_0660.jpg][Image: IMG_0665.jpg][Image: IMG_0669.jpg][Image: IMG_0671.jpg][Image: IMG_0673.jpg][Image: IMG_0654.jpg][Image: IMG_0676-2.jpg]
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#14
Thank you for posting this. I've been hoping someone would design something like this. I have a duo 2.0 with a slightly different bed size, so I'll be waiting for a remix and a lot of user input before I implement, but great job!
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#15
Thank you David Smile
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#16
I apologise for having to say it but really going to 4 screws is a devolution of the design and a step backwards.

As suggested earlier (by luc I think) 3 screws is all you need and by using 4 you are actually making your life harder not easier. We wused to have 4 point levelling in earlier repraps and it was such a pain. Once the designs converted to 3 it made life a lot easier.

It is almost impossible to get a truly flat plane using 4 points and one will often sit just a fraction loose often introdcuing some play. Further, if you have a warp and hope to fix it with 4 screws, you will not. Instead you will only add to the stresses which will mean things move around more as the platform heat vaires. If you have a warp fix it by addressing the issue.
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#17
Simon, I apologize for having to say this, but,
nowhere in this thread does it say that I recommend this design over stock, or that it performs better than stock, or that it is a next step in evolution of print bed leveling technology. Instead, in the very first few sentences it says that, the reason this mod was created was to solve one specific problem that I was having (front right corner sagging, while the other 3 corners were perfectly level). This mod has NO practical benefit, that comes to mind, over stock set up that is already level.
There is absolutely no reason for it to be "almost impossible to get a truly flat plane using 4 points"
Now, looking back, I probably shouldn't have said that "one corner is sagging WAY down" as it gave people wrong impression as to the severity of the problem. In reality the right front corner of the bed was about 1-1.5mm lower then the other 3. But, for the sake of the argument, printing 1mm above the print platform is the same as printing 20mm above the print platform- there is no part to bed adhesion to speak of.
I can also assure you, that understanding the benefits of having 3 points of adjustment versus 4- is well withing my grasp. Both designs have their inherent benefits as well as drawbacks. One drawback of having 3 points of adjustment is that- you cannot bow/warp the surface of glass, only tilt it. In my case, in order to be able to utilize the entire print surface of the bed I had two options: 1- find a perfectly straight print bed/glass, 2- find a way to push one corner of the print bed upward by 1-1.5mm while leaving the other 3 corners relatively unaffected. Having all of the required tools and hardware already on hand, I decided to go with the latter.
I did not make these parts so that I could post them here, I made them to see if they would fix a specific issue, and posted them here because they did. As far as adjusting the bed height with 4 screws is concerned- I, personally, have not had any issues, I leveled the bed out relatively quickly, and have not had to mess with the adjustment much if any since then (4-5 weeks now). I have absolutely no experience with any of the other 3D printers out there, and as such do not know how my (so far positive) experience would compare to other printers, or to that of other owners.
Glass brittleness- last week I was printing a caterpillar-like track for the wire bundle going from the top of the extruder assembly to the back of the printer (more of an aesthetic reason than practical), and while fitting track parts together, I dropped an 11-in-1 screwdriver (pretty heavy) down on to the still-cooling print bed, and the bed survived. There is no arguing of course that mechanically warping the surface of glass will introduce an increased chance of failure, and that if not careful, one could potentially crack the glass even without dropping anything on it. I was however happy to learn that, in my case, the amount of extra stress put on the glass did not make it too much more volatile than glass normally is.

I am not in any way trying to push anyone towards adopting this design over stock, or trying to make it sound as if it is better than what it is. But if my print bed were to somehow straighten itself out over time, I do not believe I would care to spend a minute of my time required to undo the corner screws and put the center one back on.

Apologies for making this reply, perhaps needlessly, too long.
Good day.
Anton. Smile
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#18
FYI, I kinda solved the very same problem long ago by simply inserting a custom sort of wedge beneath the bed in the affected corner (also the front right one). I had it like that for about a month and then removed it, and the warping had practically disappeared. But that was back in the first weeks of owning the printer, when I was even using a dial indicator regularly. Nowadays, with a lot more experience under my belt, I'm way less obsessed with perfect bed leveling, since the majority of the time I'm printing small objects and thus leveling is not so critical, and specially with PLA, which adheres too fucking well to the blue painters tape anyway...
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#19
Hello Oscahie,
I did the same thing at first. I had a lot of these 20mm x30mm rectangles that were printed to test different print settings, they were anywhere from 1 to 5 layers high. I just stacked a bunch of these on top of one another and used them as a shim between the 2 levels of the assembly. That did indeed work very well for me as well.
I was wondering if the glass could straighten itself out over time, and now that I know that it could, I am curious to see whether or not mine has had any noticeable improvement.
I have not yet looked at printing with PLA, but I have used the painters tape with ABS and I have to agree that parts stick to it all too well. The only problem with ABS is that you have to have the bed hot, as the tape became hot it made it a lot easier to pull off, and that resulted in larger parts being able to pull the tape up of the bed at the corners of the print.
I have been using Elmer's glue for a while now ( http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Disappearin...lue+sticks ) and I am amazed at how well it works. I apply one layer going from side to side, and another from front to back while the print bed is cool, that lasts about 2-3 prints (when printing over the same area). I have printed a lot of parts (for the last 4 weekends the printer has been running almost non-stop) different shapes, sizes, filaments, and I have not had any issues with parts coming off during prints, any warping or any other issues. The parts also seem to almost pop of the bed by themselves once the bed cools. Very happy with it so farSmile
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#20
Someone is a little touchy.

Please understand my comments are really for the benfit of those reading the thread who could interpret this as an "upgrade"... in fact it seems to have been read that way by at least one of those in the thread. Hopefully they will read down far enough to my comments and now yours to understand this is a specific fudge/bodge for a specific problem. A lot of Da Vincis users are very new to 3D printing and see every mod as an upgrade unless very clearly stated it is not - So here is that statement.

And yes, it is for all reasonable intents and purposes humanly impossible to porperly adjust a 4 point system so they are applying equal pressure to a level plane and a massive waste of time to even try .. 4 points on a plane is an ideal that is painful to make mechanical reality. That's exactly the reason why any design worth it's salt ditched 4 point levelling from reprap designs years ago.
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