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1.0A and Repetier Host .92 Layer Shifting Support Group
it is worth a million.
Thanks for the commnent.
I bought my 2.0, printed a couple of things... all fine. Changed to repetier, adjusted everything, printed a couple of things all good. Started to make bigger parts and spaghetti came along. So it is weird to deal with because all starts fine and is partially like an hour in the print that stuff happens... so maybe cables are expanding or something and then pupu happens?
I will change the cables all together and see what happens. Maybe use the stock firmware to make sure that all is good and that I didnt change a setting that affected my printer...
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I have a thought.
Normally stepper motor cables come in a ribbon. All the cables are together. Would it be smart to use ribbon, or better just 22 AWG cables separated.
Also, what about using those like ferromagnetic black things that you normally see on USB cables? would that also work or improve on anything?
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I just ordered the JST and crimp ends (whatever they're called) from DigiKey
Ordered a multi-color spool pack of 24g from amazon.

I'll update when I get them installed.
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It is not Repetier that is the problem per se. The looms are weak and probably the more aggressive acceleration of Repetier breaks the bad ones sooner... but it will still happen no matter what firmware you are on.
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Update on mine.
I got new JST and wire in. I re-wired X and Y motors yesterday. I've been printing non-stop since without any issues. I kicked off a 4 hour print last night, which before was 100% possibility to fail. I woke up with it perfect. I've printed probably another 3 hours (2 pieces) since then without any issue.
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Amazing.
I discovered that lowes at my place does not have any 22 gauge wire. So I ordered some in amazon.
Did you wire them lose or in a ribbon?
where did you trace the wires? the same original place or did you place them somewhere else?
did you use 22 gauge?

thanks a lot.. send some pics if you can
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I actually accidentally ordered 24 gauge. I was a little mad at myself but I decided to try it anyways. Just from personal experience in the field working with wiring, I know 90% of the time it's the grade and quality of the wiring, not just the gauge, so I gave it a shot.

I wired every strand individually, zip tied about an inch down from the head to help keep the wires together while in the machine.

I routed them mostly along the same path. X-axis goes up and over the Y axis stepper then down to the bottom along the rear (home position) corner. I re-did the X axis stepper connection. Mine was going into a loop then back around which would severely kink the copper in the wiring and probably breaking it over time. Everything else seemed OK as far as routing.

I made my wires 1-2 inches longer than the stock ones, just for peace of mind and ease of routing.

I dont have pics because I'm in the middle of a huge print. I've literally been printing 24 hours a day on it for the past couple of days without any hiccups. I know I'm probably wrong in saying this (believing what I want to see), but I believe I do notice a much quicker and snappier reaction in the X and Y motors. Leaving home to the middle of the plate, they haul ass and during tight corners they are much sharper.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51O...ge_o00_s00

That is the wiring I bought.
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UPDATE
Dear Forum members,
I received my connectors and my cable. The cable 24AWG is not like individual little wires but a solid cable.. a little bit less flexible but looks very resistant and much better than what it comes on the printer.
My davindi 2.0 has a 6 pin connector at the motor and a 4 pin connector at the board... just in case, I was wise to order from my office a dozen of each connector (2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 pins) to make sure that I had them all.

I fired a test print (1 hour) and it went well. I just fired a 5 hour one and is about to finish without a problem. Is the famous OWL that we all see online.

I will report one more time later once I print some more.
Also, does someone had problems with the wire feeding mechanism? sometimes I have to push the filament a little from the top for it to catch... do I have to clean parts or something?

Kind Regards,

Daniel H
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another whole day of printing and so far so good. Unfortunately I have another question. Since I have not played at all with my printer, I am starting as a noob on this topics.
I started to print this holder this afternoon

http://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-mo...cil-holder

at 0.3 mm layers... and it says it will take 22 hours.
Can someone share some settings of speed and such that will make my prints good enough but faster than that?
Thanks a lot
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I see you mentioned that you used solid wire instead of stranded. I would expect you will eventually have trouble with this in the future for a couple possible reasons. First, solid wire is not meant for applications where flexing is involved, stranded wire being more flexible is meant for this type of application. Solid wire has the potential to eventually fracture as a result of moving (flexing) repeatedly. Secondly, the crimp on end connection will be less reliable over time. Crimping onto a solid wire means you are crimped onto the wire versus being crimped into the strands of the wire. More contact between the crimp on end and the wire in the case of stranded wires.

This is meant just as a heads up if you start to see offset problems with your new solid wire harnesses.
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Yeah. i ordered the wrong one. I just ordered new stranded cable.. When it fails, I will replace it.
I have printed some more and no problems what SO EVER !!!!
My problem now is to find the right settings to print nice and fast.. if anyone has any suggestions I will welcome them pretty openly.
Regards,

Daniel Hercules
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Quote:I actually accidentally ordered 24 gauge. I was a little mad at myself but I decided to try it anyways. Just from personal experience in the field working with wiring, I know 90% of the time it's the grade and quality of the wiring, not just the gauge, so I gave it a shot.

I wired every strand individually, zip tied about an inch down from the head to help keep the wires together while in the machine.

I routed them mostly along the same path. X-axis goes up and over the Y axis stepper then down to the bottom along the rear (home position) corner. I re-did the X axis stepper connection. Mine was going into a loop then back around which would severely kink the copper in the wiring and probably breaking it over time. Everything else seemed OK as far as routing.

I made my wires 1-2 inches longer than the stock ones, just for peace of mind and ease of routing.

I dont have pics because I'm in the middle of a huge print. I've literally been printing 24 hours a day on it for the past couple of days without any hiccups. I know I'm probably wrong in saying this (believing what I want to see), but I believe I do notice a much quicker and snappier reaction in the X and Y motors. Leaving home to the middle of the plate, they haul ass and during tight corners they are much sharper.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51O...ge_o00_s00

That is the wiring I bought.

Just to make sure I have the right parts I would appreciate someone looking below to see if I made any errors. Also need a recommendation for a cheap crimper.

This is what I will need:

1.  The wire 22-24 gauge - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N51O...ge_o00_s00

2.  The connecters/housing:
        4 prong - http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en...-ND/608606
        6 prong - http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en...vendor=455

3.  The prongs/crimp - http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en...=search_go
4.  Crimping tool -  Any recommendations on an inexpensive one?

Thanks
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Hey Mark,
This a crimping tool that was recommended to me earlier on the forum

http://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-09-Mic...in+crimper

I am cheap so I did not buy it. I just folded the connectors with a plier and welded the cable to make sure the connection was strong. It works just fine that way as well. Just in case.

Do you have optimized settings for the printer. I am still playing around the settings to get good speed and good prints at low time.
Regards,
Daniel Hercules
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Thanks Daniel. I did end up buying as similar crimper. I figure I may have use for it in the future.

As for speed in S3D I currently have it at 45 mm/s as the default printing speed. This has been a good number for me before. I can probably speed it up but at some point you get diminishing returns. I think I recall someone either here or on Solidforum stating that 60 mm/s may be max on the DaVinci. As we both know there are many other speed and quality settings.

I use S3D with my DaVinci so I am not too sure how those would translate to you. Leveling the bed right is very key to getting good prints. Is there a specific issue you are having? I am certainly no "expert" but I may be able to help out.
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Thanks for the reply.
I am not having trouble with the prints other than I dont know what settings are best. What speed for perimeters, how many perimeters, solid layers? height? and all those things.
I use repetier and it comes with slicer... but I see that S3D does not list Da Vinci as a supported printer? did you have to play with the settings as well or did it work just like that OTB?
I guess the S3D creates you the gcode that then you download onto your repetier to print? how is the process of using it?
Thanks a lot
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Quote:Thanks for the reply.
I am not having trouble with the prints other than I dont know what settings are best. What speed for perimeters, how many perimeters, solid layers? height? and all those things.
I use repetier and it comes with slicer... but I see that S3D does not list Da Vinci as a supported printer? did you have to play with the settings as well or did it work just like that OTB?
I guess the S3D creates you the gcode that then you download onto your repetier to print? how is the process of using it?
Thanks a lot

S3D Does indeed support the DaVinci and has for some time. I have used it on both stock firmware and repetier. I like the program very much but it is a bit costly. It is my preferred slicer.

As for the settings I use:
1. I usually use a layer height of .2 but this can vary depending on what I am printing
2. Top and Bottom Solid Layers I do 3
3. For outer Perimeter/shell I usually do 2 but sometimes 3.
4. Infill will vary depending on how strong you need the part. I usually do something between 15 and 25% infill but would go 50% + if I required a more solid part.
5. First layer speed is about 50 % of my current speed of 45mm/s. I may lower the percent to speed this up some.

Mark
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