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1.0A and Repetier Host .92 Layer Shifting Support Group
Did you re-make cables? or just bundled them together in a different way?
if I wanted to buy the connectors for this printer, where and what should I buy? I just dont know the name of these connectors but I want to make my own cables and see if it solves the problem.
I am having lots of spaghetti.
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also my phone is 219-363-7351 if you want to text me tips.. hehe Smile
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The best solution is the replace the wire harness. The break or open in the wire might not necessarily be at the end connector, it could be anywhere in the cheap wire that they used as I've found on at least one of the harnesses that has given me trouble. With this being the case re bundling (bending the wire in a different way) could actually make the problem worse.

The crimp on ends and plastic receptacles and sockets are JST 2.0 PH Series components (digikey is a great source for pretty much any electronic components in any quantity from 1 to 1000s). If you are having trouble finding the right item there let me know and I can get you the part number. The crimper I used was Part Number PA-09 (found on Amazon).
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Thanks for the information.
I am not at home where my printer is now. I am at campus where I teach. Is is it a female connector for the motor and the same female connector at the board? or the connector at the main board is different?
Thanks a lot.
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and I guess this is the part number from digikey right?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en...-ND/608606
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It's a 6 pin female connector or the motor end of the harness and a 4 pin female connector at the board end of the harness. It is possible to carefully remove the old wire and crimp from the receptacles and reuse them, which would mean you just need the crimps and a crimper.
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That's the right stuff.
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Chris is right about putting in new/better wire, this is what I did. I also left a good deal more slack than was necessary.
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I have the 2.0. I better check that is a 4 pin and a 6 pin rather than a 4 pin both sides.
what gauge of cable should I use?
is it necesary to thermal shrink them individually at the connector?
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The cheap wire that XYZ used was 28 gauge. I think I used 22 or 24 gauge. If the crimps are put on correctly and then inserted into a receptacle there should be no need for thermal shrink tubing.

Yeah, my reference to 6 pin at motor and 4 pin at board is based on my 1.0A. But I would think they are using the same motors and even the same board (just the necessary additional components added to it) on the 2.0.
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The thermal shrink isn't necessary, just overkill Wink
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Are you guys still having the issue after replacing the wiring?
I havent taken the printer apart. What are the wires connected to in the back, just another connector or they directly soldered to a board?
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I have no problems on replaced harnesses. It's the same type of socket plug to connect to the board, no soldering required.
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No problems here, the connection to the motor was most certainly the culprit in my case.
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did you guys also changed the STOP_Check (I think this is how is called) setting on the code?
or just fixed the cable?
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I am using stock firmware from XYZ, not Repetier host, so this isn't a factor on my printer.
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wow, so for real is a fault with the printer...
I thought that repetier had like different accelerations and stuff and then motor balance and voltages get affected.... but if you have stock software then yeah, is definitely a printer fault... thanks for sharing...
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Does someone have the part number from digikey for the actual metal pin for the connector?
I will just order a bunch of all the possibilities from 2 to 6 pins and make sure I have them all... if not, they will work for building LIPO batteries
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My 0.02 worth. I definitely have a problem with the cabling from the way it was setup. After about 3 months I finally have received new cables from XYZ under warranty. I have not replaced them yet however. I was able to cut the harnesses free of the zip ties and massage them to get them working again. Once I did that all my issues went away without any changes. Holding out for some sign of failure before I pull it apart though. 200+ hours on repetier since then and no sign of issues.
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The part number for the crimp on end I ordered is - 455-2147-1-ND

I ordered a lot of those and then a few of several different receptacles sizes (pin counts) so I have the parts needed to rebuild any and all of the harnesses on the printer as the need arises.
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