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Davinci extruder carriage for the E3D /MK8
#1
Nozzle height is the same as the Davinci hot end. 15mm linear bearings. The carriage is 6.5mm taller than the hexagon version.
There will be issues with space between the Teflon tube and fitting that are attached to the top of the E3D hotend and the MK8 extruder.
Should be on Thingiverse within an hour.










[Image: img1.jpg][Image: img2.jpg][Image: img3.jpg][Image: img4.jpg][Image: img5.jpg][Image: img6.jpg]
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#2
Thingiverse Location
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#3


[Image: img7.jpg][Image: img8.jpg]
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#4
Thanks Chris

I'll print this out and let you know.

What holds the E3D in place on this carriage?

The E3D does not come with a bracket like the Hex.
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#5
James you either have to get a plate or modify an E3D to have a 6mm stub sticking up on it. The MK8 has a 6mm threaded hole in the bottom of it where the filament comes out. I noticed the E3D drawings show that the top is an 8mm hole but it doesn't show if it is threaded or not. You could drill and tap the MK8 to 8mm quite easily. Maybe you could verify the size of the hole in the E3D and if it is threaded or not?
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#6
It looks like some of the knock offs have just a 2mm hole in the top. This would be easy to drill and tap to 6mm and make a small threaded stub to join the extruder to the hotend.
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#7
The E3D's hole is not threaded, and it is of that size because it *requires* a PTFE tube going down that hole.
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#8
The E3D is meant to be held below the top ring. That gap is meant to slide into a bracket.

Why not print another piece that would slide into that slot on the E3D then could be screwed down to the top of the carriage?
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#9
Printed the carriage out last night.
Pulled off the supports but have not cleaned it up yet.

The dimensions look good just holding the E3D next to it.

Maybe a hole for the hot end wires to pass through would make a cleaner setup.

A mounting bracket similar to the hex made out of plastic would do the trick.

Thanks for the effort on this Chris.





[Image: P3220003.jpg][Image: P3220004.jpg][Image: P3220005.jpg]
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#10
Thanks James, I know you are running the Bowden setup so what parts of the carriage do you need and what parts need to be removed or added?
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#11
Quote:Thanks James, I know you are running the Bowden setup so what parts of the carriage do you need and what parts need to be removed or added?

I hope you don't mind I make some changes to your carriage.

I am going to use this carriage and keep the direct drive design that you have.
I am going to make a couple of modifications to mount the E3D to it and the
extruder I have been using because it is flexible filament friendly.

Will let you know what I come up with.
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#12
Something like this?
[Image: img9.jpg]
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#13
Quote:Something like this?

That is what I had in mind but I don't think
that alone will secure the E3D from moving around.
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#14
James that is all I have to secure my hexagon hotend and I haven't had any issues. The top front of the hotend rests on the carriage as well as the bracket if everything is sized properly. With an MK8 on top of it , it really cant go anywhere except maybe up and down .5mm or less. You could make a small loop or bracket that can be acetone glued to the side of the carriage for securing the wires. This would also keep the hotend from twisting.
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#15
Here are some pictures of the cooling duct




[Image: imgcooling1.jpg][Image: imgcooling2.jpg][Image: imgcooling3.jpg]
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#16
Messing with the background to see the part better.




[Image: imgcooling4.jpg][Image: imgcooling5.jpg][Image: imgcooling6.jpg]
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#17
Known issues so far:
There are issues with the lack of space between the Teflon tube and fitting that are attached to the top of the E3D hotend and the MK8 extruder.
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#18
I have been giving it some thought and this is what I would do if I had an E3D hotend with the tubing fitting in the top, and wanted to use my design for a carriage.
I would either remove the tubing fitting or cut it off flush with the top of the hotend and insert the Teflon tubing into the hotend. I would make it stick out of the top of the hotend just enough to be inside the 6mm threads of the MK8. The required Teflon tubing is 4mm OD and the hole in the MK8 is tapped to 6mm. The ID of the threads in the 6mm hole should be close enough to the OD of the Teflon tube (4mm) to keep the tube centered. If the tube is loose in the threads of the MK8 you could wrap a piece of tape around the tube to get a better fit.
This is what I would do.
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#19
Quote:James that is all I have to secure my hexagon hotend and I haven't had any issues. The top front of the hotend rests on the carriage as well as the bracket if everything is sized properly. With an MK8 on top of it , it really cant go anywhere except maybe up and down .5mm or less. You could make a small loop or bracket that can be acetone glued to the side of the carriage for securing the wires. This would also keep the hotend from twisting.

I just realized you not only added the bracket but you modified the carriage as well so both rings on the E3D have support.
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#20
Quote:I have been giving it some thought and this is what I would do if I had an E3D hotend with the tubing fitting in the top, and wanted to use my design for a carriage.
I would either remove the tubing fitting or cut it off flush with the top of the hotend and insert the Teflon tubing into the hotend. I would make it stick out of the top of the hotend just enough to be inside the 6mm threads of the MK8. The required Teflon tubing is 4mm OD and the hole in the MK8 is tapped to 6mm. The ID of the threads in the 6mm hole should be close enough to the OD of the Teflon tube (4mm) to keep the tube centered. If the tube is loose in the threads of the MK8 you could wrap a piece of tape around the tube to get a better fit.
This is what I would do.

The tube fittings unscrew from my E3D and would work ok without it unless I'm running flexible filament then might be a problem.
The Teflon tubing would be a good idea.
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