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Y Axis Front (left) Bearing Clicking
#1
I have this weird clicking noise right near the Y axis Front (left side) bearing. It clicks when the extruder moves on the Y axis. I can feel the clicking when holding the bearing mount when the extruder is moving on the y axis. The bearing mount looks fine. The machine works great still but the clicking sound is annoying. Is this a bad bearing?
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#2
I also noticed that the metal x axis shaft is getting hot and evaporating the lithium grease. I am going to pick up some super lube today. I am going to take apart the bearing mount later today to check out whats clicking.
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#3
Clicking bearing can mean it's bad, or the mount might be cracked where you can't see it right now.

Check/clean the oilite bushings on the extruder carriage. If it's generating enough friction to vaporize lithium grease, just adding super lube won't solve it. Also double check the carriage... if the hot end is crooked, or the screws holding the stepper motor on are too tight... it can cause the carriage to warp and bind against the rails.
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#4
Thanks Tom. I had a pretty rough night because I found an additional problem with the y axis carriage. It had a loose bushing so I have to rip apart my printer to try and Reglue it. I didn't want to get the shaft covered in glue so I tried using loctite puddy rated for 150 degrees F and I thought I got the shaft aligned perfectly to the bushing. When I installed everything I realized I was off just a hair when I glued it back together. I am not sure how you go about getting the bushing glued perfectly. It's really frustrating that all it takes is the alignment of the bushings to be off .5mm for the machine to not function correctly. I also found the source of the clicking while checking out the bearings and realized that one of the wheels was slightly loose. So I need get rid of the slack.
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#5
There are some shims on thingiverse to take up the slack, or you can cut some shims out of other materials you have around. If you're really ambitious, you can get spring washers.
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#6
Thanks. I tried putting a shim in but the existing shim looks slightly bent so it's hard to get it to fit in. I replaced the bushings successfully. The bars aren't as hot anymore. But I still don't understand how people only lube their printer only once a month. I have to lube it every print. If I don't the printer gets noisey and you can hear metal on metal.
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#7
I installed a fan duct for better airflow to the heatsink of the extruder last night. I wasn't paying attention to the fan direction and I think I have it in the right direction now. Can someone confirm that the fan's sticker faces the extruder when installing the fan?

On a side note. I still seem to have problems with lube evaporating. I added superlube and it works way better than the white lithium I had. I think the heat from the bed is causing the lube to evaporate. The bed is very close to the metal shafts and seems to put off a lot of heat. I have kapton tape installed on my bed and I think that is why its causing the extra heat. My heated bed takes a long time to heat up with the added kapton tape.
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#8
This one: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:695462 ? Cuz that revision was my work Smile

All DC fans have two small arrows marked on the side. One indicates rotation direction, the other indicates flow direction. Apparently, XYZ has installed the fan in both orientations at different times. Mine came with the fan blowing into the extruder, I flipped it around to pull air up off the extruder. I think pulling up and out works better because you're working with convection...

I think the lube issue is still something else. I have upgraded both the bed heating element (to 140W) and the extruder heating element (to 40W) and I don't have these issues you describe. Try ABS slurry if you think the tape is the issue...
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#9
BTW - the boiling point of white lithium is 2426 °F.... at that kind of temp, I think you'd have other problems too, like nearly melting the steel rods
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#10
Thanks Tom. I think your fan direction makes sense. When the fan blows towards the heat sync I don't feel any output of air.

What would cause the lube from not sticking? I didn't notice that the bushing tend to push the lube all to one side of the rail not leaving much to stick to the area the extruder is moving. Within 30 mins of printing there seems to be no lube on the actual rail.
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#11
Barry,

Please keep in mind that a buildup of lube on the bushings could also mean there was excess lube to begin with, and its just getting pushed to the end of the rail. Is noise the symptom that leads you to believe the rails arent lubbed? My printer works awesome right now, and i have a little lube pushed to the end of the rails, along with a little on the outside of the bushings.
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#12
the bushings are designed to be a very tight fit... if they weren't, the carriage would have a lot of slop in it's movements

that tight fit means that barely any lubricant will fit between the bushing and the rail, and as a result you will see the excess lube being wiped to the ends of the rails, there is nothing wrong with that
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#13
I think the noise and how the shafts look leads me to believe the lube isn't there. The printer gets noisy once the lube wears off and the shaft looks really shiny. I am going to install a fan mount facing the extruder and I hope it will push the heat away from the shafts. I just need to look up how to do the wiring for the fan.
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#14
I still think you have something else going on here... because you're the only one I've seen with this much of an issue.

Fan wiring is easy if you don't want it controlled by the microcontroller. You can tap into the 12V or 5V lines coming from the power supply, and pick any ground (all of the control board screws are grounded)... you might want to add a switch in line (either on the ground or positive side, no need for both) so you can manually turn the fan on/off.
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#15
What would cause this to happen? I had this problem with an old davinci printer before I sent it back for other reasons. The stock lube on the printer worked but when I had a 7 hr print I heard metal on metal and it was a loud noise. I quickly added some grease and it eliminated the horrible sound.
So I seem to notice this issue with both prints i've owned. Maybe I could tape a short video of what I am talking about.
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#16
Video couldn't hurt
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#17
Regarding rail lubrication, when i first started with this printer I was also lubricating the rails and the Y pully with white lithium grease. Noticed I was needing to re-apply every other week in order to keep the thing quiet. I assumed the white lithium may be a bit thick and was getting pushed out by the bushings. I switched over to super lube on a lint free cloth, wiping the rails down with the cloth. Now I just have a little lube ring at the furthest extent of the rails, and the machine stays quiet. Now Im reapplying lube as part of a monthly maintenance routine even though it doesnt seem like its needed. Still havent solved for the creaky Y tensioner, but my rails are quiet at least.

Just saw your fan comment, your rails are actually warm to the touch while printing? Even when my rails sounded a little noisy, I never noticed any heat coming off them. If so that may be more of a bushing alignment issue than lube.
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#18
That's the point I've been trying to get across here. I don't think it's a lube issue.

The extruder carriage is EXTREMELY FLIMSY. I found that if the hotend is a little crooked (for instance, you pinched the heater wire) or if the extruder stepper screws are too tight... it will warp the plastic carriage, causing the bushings to bind against the rails.

Try this:
Slide your carriage to the middle of the build area, then slide it back and forth on the x-axis feeling the resistance.
Remove the hotend, then move the carriage back and forth on the x-axis again. Did the resistance change?
Remove the extruder stepper motor, then move the carriage back and forth on the x-axis again. Did the resistance change?
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#19
I lowered the bed temp to 80C and the lube seems to be much more effective. I think the kapton tape was the issue. It was putting off a lot of heat and with kapton tape I don't need the bed temp to be so high. I will check the extruder out this weekend because when I was printing it was randomly doing this intense shaking. I don't know what it was doing honestly. towards the end of the print on the outer shell it would go smoothly around it then it did this jittery movement on some parts of the print. I had to hold the printer to stop it from shaking so much.
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#20
Sounds like the shaking is coming from the fill in between walls or just rapidly laying down the final layers on a small area. Noise isolation is hard inside a closed cube. My Y tension wheel creak sounds like its coming from the right side due to echo. I still cant wrap my head around why bed temp would affect anything other than model adhesion and leveling. Sounds like you are making progress though, just hope you arent misdiagnosing rail noise for the Y tension wheel, which does creak and/or click depending on the speed. I have to remove the wheel and apply a liberal amount of grease almost weekly, otherwise it sounds like a haunted house door creaking.
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