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DV 2.0 Extruders Height Variations
#1
I just solidified the heated bed right side bronze bushings with some thread locker product.
That's fixed.
I decided to do a Calibration of the bed to extruder dimensions to see if it was OK.
BTW the DV 2.0 is brand new with about 2 hours of use.
The numbers came back as FAIL (+077) (+ERR) (+51)

I tried adjusting the bed for about an hour re-calibrating after each adjustment until I got
close to (+100) (+100) (+100). The final calibration was (+101) (+ERR) (+104).
Throughout the process the middle value that showed (+ERR) never changed.

Looking closely at the Extruder points that made contact with the bed the Number #1 bed
position was touched by the pin to the left of the Right extruder (#1) nozzle.
The Number #2 bed position was touched by the nozzle of the Left extruder.
The Number #3 bed position was touched by the pin to the left of the Right extruder (#1) nozzle.

Obviously something was amiss...

Manually jogging the extruder head to the front of the printer bed and using calipers I measured
the right and left sides of the bed to the extruder head shaft parallel to the front edge of the bed.
Both measurement were the same.

I then jugged the extruders head slowly to just touch the bed. There was the problem........
When the left extruder nozzle just barely made contact with the bed glass and there was a
gap of ~0.17mm between the right extruder nozzle and the bed glass. When printing with
the right extruder the left extruder nozzlw would move the already extruded material on the
bed.

There is one thing I'm not sure about.....
The pin near the Right Extruder on the above test had a gap of ~0.61mm between it and the
glass bed.

If anyone can shed some light on this I might not go nuts. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Jerry
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#2
hey the same thing happened to me. I had to shim my #2 extruder down to be at the same level as extruder #1 . what I did was loosen the locknut on the threaded barrel a bit and slid the hot end down and cut u-shaped shims out of steel shim stock I had and then tightened back up the lock nut and all is good now with zero worries of the nozzle bumping into my prints.
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#3
Quote:hey the same thing happened to me. I had to shim my #2 extruder down to be at the same level as extruder #1 . what I did was loosen the locknut on the threaded barrel a bit and slid the hot end down and cut u-shaped shims out of steel shim stock I had and then tightened back up the lock nut and all is good now with zero worries of the nozzle bumping into my prints.

Thanks Jeff. Smile
I took the fans and mounting bracket off the rear of the extruder head assembly yesterday and saw
the nut holding the extruder. I'll give it a try and report back.

Jerry
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#4
I am a bit surprised by this with the quality of the XYZ printers.

I keep getting an ERR on one of the positions. I actually found out that the locations of positions do not really match the instructions very clearly.
I gave up with the automatic and simply went to the sheet of paper method and when I did that the numbers came into line. I also found out that the bed needs to be quite clean. and the same with the nozzles.

after working with the printer, I tend to watch the first layer and how it is laid down - - hot end too low. get extruder skipping and uneven first layer.
too high - - nice looking nice and thick but not driven into the build plate so in just a layer or two the print comes off.

basically what I am suggesting is that you manual check things out. and make adjustments. Looks like you might have an adjustment way out. and the result is the build plate is not level relative to the build plate.

also I found a video or instructions that showed how to take the hot end off and fans , - - really a nice design. - - - I had a hot end get plugged. - - -
and then realized that no heat sink compound was present between the AL block and heat sink. and the AL tube. So I added some and the hot end seems to work better and reduced the chance of plugs with PLA.
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#5
@ Jim P...
Do you have a link to the video you mentioned ??? Smile



Quote:hey the same thing happened to me. I had to shim my #2 extruder down to be at the same level as extruder #1 . what I did was loosen the locknut on the threaded barrel a bit and slid the hot end down and cut u-shaped shims out of steel shim stock I had and then tightened back up the lock nut and all is good now with zero worries of the nozzle bumping into my prints.

Jeff, I put the shims as you suggested and it seems to have solved the problem with the
uneven extruder nozzles on my DV 2.0.

For anyone with a DV 1.0 or D V2.0......
I printed out a test circle and it was still not round. With more checking and testing I found
the bushings on the left side of the "Y" trolly had come un-glued and required re-gluing so
I re-glued those bushings if they needed it or not on both machines.
I must say that the thread/bushing locker that XYZ used sucks or was used too sparingly.

I also needed to re-align the belts on the "Y" axis to have the trolly touch the front of the pulley
holders at the same time. It seems on both of my machines they were off making the trolly
move on the "Y" axis slightly skewed and out of square to the "X" axis.

I can now print "round" circles on both machines.

Strange findings.....
NOTE: make sure that the pin next to the extruder nozzle actually touches the 3 metal plates
at the 3 corners of the bed when doing an auto calibration. (My DV2.0 did not touch the 2nd
metal plate and gave me an "ERR" for that height value)

On the DV 2.0 the bed temp goes to 70 deg and the nozzle temp goes to 210 when
doing a calibration.
Using the User Manual values of 100, once adjusted to "success" the prints come out quite
nice and stick to the bed.

On the DV 1.0 the bed temp goes to 90 deg and the nozzle temp goes to 210 when
doing a calibration.
Using the User Manual values of 235, once adjusted to "success" the extruder nozzle is too
far from the bed to lay down the extruded plastic.

I'll be working on re-adjusting the bed manually to get a good print height then see what
numbers I get from the DV 1.0 on an auto calibration. If you try this and the printer shows
"success" DO NOT press [Return] or those values will be recorded. Just tun off the printer
and reboot.

For two brand new machines this seems to be a lot of tinkering, adjusting and replacing
of parts IMO.

These DaVinci 3D printers seem to be well designed but badly executed using inferior
assembly techniques... IMO.

Jerry
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