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Code 0013, is my controller shot?
#1
Got code 0013 the other day. Monitor mode shows extruder 110C and bed 120C, but they're both room temp. I contacted XYZ support, and they had me ship the heated glass back (just the glass and heater). But even with that removed, I still get code 0013. I tried unplugging the bed thermistor and the results are the same.

So I'm concerned that XYZ's diagnosis is incorrect... and I'm worried the controller board is toast. Any insight? Things I could test?
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#2
Nobody huh?

Well, I took the bed thermistor out and checked it... reading nearly 500kOhm at room temp... so, fried. Hopefully that's it... going to see about a replacement. Will report back how I make out...
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#3
Just got off the phone, they're sending a new bed thermistor along with the new heated glass. Will report once they arrive and I have a chance to install. Still worried I toasted the controller... we'll see.
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#4
Gotta say, kinda disappointed with the customer service. They received my RMA parts last week, but still nothing has been shipped to me. They keep promising, but no tracking numbers...
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#5
It took me a whole month to get a replacement for the board, so go figure. Anyway, at least here in Europe they have several different companies acting on behalf of XYZ for tech support, and actually depending on which one you come in contact with, you may have a different outcome (true story).
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#6
Well I just ordered myself a whole heated bed since I'm tired of waiting... hopefully that's the problem, and not the controller. Unfortunately it seems like no one else has any experience with this issue.
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#7
So the replacement bed I ordered was shipped today (same day)... so what's customer service's excuse for not sending me the warranty parts already?? Quickly becoming disappointed with this company. Too bad they got so much attention at CES.
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#8
So the bed I ordered showed up (not the one customer service is still promising me). Right off the bat I noticed three things: 1) the heater is attached better than my original, the original had a number of large air bubbles and it was peeling off all around the wires 2) they added spacers to the four corners, doubling the thickness of the calibration points... probably going to take the spacers off 3) one of the calibration screws is bent

Haven't plugged it in yet... it's 20F here and I don't want to try and heat the glass up until it's warmed up a bit.
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#9
The new glass also has a large chip out of the front-left edge... not in the work surface, but c'mon... no quality control??
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#10
No joy.... installed the new thermistor and bed... still getting code 0013. Monitor mode still shows 110C extruder and 120C bed.

So, my controller is toast?? I saw another thread about Keith repairing the board... is that an option here? Really, really hoping someone has some input. I obviously can't count on XYZ.
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#11
Guess I'm the only idiot with these problems lol, talking to myself
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#12
Well I'll keep updating in case someone else has the same problem later...

Just got off the phone with XYZ again, now I'm sending the control board in for replacement. They told me to remove the motor controllers, so that means the replacement should be the same version board.
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#13
They received my board and shipped out a new one yesterday...
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#14
Anxiously waiting for fedex to show up with the new board
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#15
New board is in, printer works again, and there was much rejoicing.

Definitely a new board, not a repair of my existing board (different serial number). But still the same version board, and still 1.1.J firmware.
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#16
Thanks for the update; glad it's working now.
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#17
Glad they eventually took care of you. Sorry i didn't see the thread.

I'm willing to do repairs on the boards, but the few i have done make it seem that the average cost is going to be 75 to 100 dollars with shipping in the US. I don't have a test fixture or wire harness so part of the repair involves disabling my own printer to test the board. What a pain, lol! I don't want to fix overseas boards, nor will i load firmwares.

The fact is, at that cost you are probably better to install and load marlin on a mega/ramps setup. To be honest, if i have another mcu glitch that is the route i will go.

On your board, it is most likely the 12 volt resistor/fuse was weak. I've found sometimes they will conduct enough to light up the board and even test properly with a meter until the heaters come on, then the voltage falls off. Essentially this happens with a slightly burned part, where the resistance is higher than usual.

Regards,
Kieth
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#18
Thanks for the reply. RAMPS had crossed my mind, as did a fried resistor... but without knowing what values should be there, it's hard to do any testing.

FWIW - if you have issues with customer service being slow, go complain about it on their facebook page (esp during CES)... gets a pretty quick response

Any chance you have a copy of 1.2.3 firmware? I'm going to go repetier soon, but I had no issues running 1.2.3 and seemed to be some minor improvements in the z-access speed.
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#19
(01-29-2015, 12:45 PM)Kieth Wrote: Glad they eventually took care of you.  Sorry i didn't see the thread.

I'm willing to do repairs on the boards,  but the few i have done make it seem that the average cost is going to be 75 to 100 dollars  with shipping in the US. I don't have a test fixture or wire harness so part of the repair involves disabling my own printer to test the board. What a pain,  lol!  I don't want to fix overseas boards,  nor will i load firmwares.

The fact is,  at that cost you are probably better to install and load marlin on a mega/ramps setup.  To be honest,  if i have another mcu glitch that is the route i will go.

On your board, it is most likely the 12 volt resistor/fuse was weak. I've found sometimes they will conduct enough to light up the board and even test properly  with a meter until the heaters come on,  then the voltage falls off. Essentially this happens with a slightly burned part,  where the resistance is higher than usual.

Regards,
Kieth
Hi Kieth,
We discussed a similar 0013 problem over a year ago(?). Unlike hippy, I chose to throw in place of the 1.0 board a 1.0A. My friend has the 1.0A and I really couldnt 'see' much difference. 
long short, I got 0014 error now, with the thermistor reading 10c when the head heats up before asking to shut down. I have replaced the thermistor, cartridge and tested continuity from therm to board.
Any thoughts?
Thanks
Troy
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#20
Replacement parts Da Vinci Jr? How can I get a Z Axis senor circuit board?. The wire harness cracked off the circuit board.
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