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My Davinci 1.0 after 15 days . . .
#1
So I received my Davinci 1.0 on Christmas day from my wonderful wife. Out of the box it was ok but I knew before I even received it that I was going to be upgrading and modding the device extensively. I wanted to document a few of my changes and mods in case someone else tuns into the issues that I have had.

First of all I want to thank everyone here and on the Soliforum forums for having tons of info at hand. I want to especially thank Kieth and Luc - without them all of this would have been a waste of time.

1. Flashing the printer with Repetier 0.92 firmware

This was pretty much the first thing that I did and frankly it's an amazing difference. Having the ability to run any filament and completely control the print environment at first was a bit overwhelming - I've never had a 3D printer before and I was lost. But after trolling through many many forums and printing piles of little test cubes and simple shapes I think I have a decent handle on the settings. I'm still learning but the quality of my prints have improved from the nasty blobs that my printer first created to now being accurate enough to print my own parts for a RichRap 3DR -

[Image: pjSr4dMRpx27zjPH0vngJMAu5ulmUz2s7SzWNo8U...w1240-h547]


[Image: open?id=0B2QgVy4Ls-e4Mkx2bVFPVGFSTFk&authuser=0]

2. Replace the stock bearing mounts

One of mine was broken literally out of the box. I downloaded Thingiverse file DaVinci bearing mount with no pins, printed it out, and installed them. No problems and it runs rock solid.

[Image: open?id=0B2QgVy4Ls-e4Q1J6VDRMMXd2OEE&authuser=0]

3. Glue in the crappy bronze bushings

I bought a set of LM8UU bearings but I soon realized that the bushings races in the box were way undersized to replace with full size bearings. Out of the box not a single one of my bearings was glued in. I pulled off all of the axis sliders and cleaned up the bearings with acetone since who ever tried to assemble this put glue on top of the bushings but none actually gluing the bushings in. Acetone takes the glue stuff right off. I pulled a couple of very small (M1) stainless screws and ran them through the bottom of the bushing races so they would stand up high enough to not hit the 8mm axis rods. I then filled in the bushing fitting area with JB Weld and pressed in the bushings while the axis rod was in place. They drive rock solid - there is ZERO wiggle in any of my bearings now. I also put a spacer on the idlers like many others.

[Image: open?id=0B2QgVy4Ls-e4aXc2U1YxQXNMZ2M&authuser=0]

The Z axis was horrible before - now it looks pretty good. The layers it prints good halfway decent now -

[Image: open?id=0B2QgVy4Ls-e4aXc2U1YxQXNMZ2M&authuser=0]

4. Square up and strengthen the outer case

The Davinci is pretty much mostly sheet metal stampings and plastic. The exterior sheetmetal frame is pretty rigid but there simply aren't enough fasteners to keep it rigid. So I added a couple self-tapping #8 screws in strategic places to keep the flex to a minimum. The chassis is MUCH stiffer now. Here's one screw but that are many more at spots that I could see separation at when I flexed the chassis.

[Image: view?usp=sharing]

5. Fix up the crappy connectors

I kept getting heater decoupling errors and it was driving me nuts. I finally realized that if I tapped the connector at the extruder for the hotend I could see the power graph on RepetierHost blip. I cut off the stupid underspeced connector and crimped on some nice manly connectors. While I was at it I remove the blue sense wires from the autosense connections on the heated bed, added nice connectors to the bed, and put a little thermal paste on the thermistor so I makes better contact with the glass. No issues since then.

6. Hotend issues

My hotness kept jamming because I would turn down the fan on the hotness because it was also cooling the ABS too rapidly and causing the prints to warp. Turning down the fan caused the ABS to swell in the hotend channel and jam up. So I opened it up, added some thermal paste, and screwed to together tightly. So now the lessened airflow is more effective since the metal of the hotend framework absorbs more heat. I've printed out parts for an e3d-v6 and a Bowden extruder so I'll be getting around this entirely soon - and printing in PLA + everything else

[Image: view?usp=sharing]

7. KEEP THE FILAMENT DRY!

Man oh man I had issues with this. Nasty bubbly prints and stringiness. So I put a tupperware container with holes in the lid full of kitty litter crystals in the bottom of a cooler and loaded in all of my filament. 24 hours later problem solved.

[Image: view?usp=sharing]

Next is a new extruder and then I may end up replacing the board with a Smoothieboard but that's for another post. Thanks for everything everyone! I appreciate it!
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#2
Darn it - - - I can't get the photos to appear inline. Ugh! Sorry guys.
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#3
Thanks for sharing - yes keep filament dry is a must - I store mine in plastic Zipper storage bag for food with some silicagel bag, and never have issue.
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#4
Thanks for your post.

I'm with Luc. On the ziplock bag, that's exactly what i do.

For your bowden/e3d upgrade, plan to re use the stock extruder stepper. It will make things easier because the isn't a good way to adjust motor currents. One of the steppers i have (not xyz) ran very hot and worse, without as much torque as the stock stepper.

Btw, my wife once asked if printing or the printer is the hobby. She now knows it is the printer. Wink


Keep us posted on your adventure.
Kieth
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#5
I've started having problems with the heater decoupling since upgrading to .92. Didn't have any problems with .91 and .92 was actually working just fine until yesterday and actually seemed to be giving me better prints. Is it safe to say that the problem is with the extruder heater connection? I've removed the pins from the connector and bent them to make better contact, then used electric tape to secure the connector so it doesn't wiggle around as the head carriage moves. If this is indeed the problem then I will make a permanent fix (ie solder the wires directly together and get rid of the connector). I'm running a print right now with the electric taped connection, so we'll see how far it gets.
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#6
I started to get issue also on my left extruder - the sensor connector seems moving and generating decouple issue when extruder is moving - I have also fixed it (the connector) and no more issue.
No decouple issue on 0.91 is normal as 0.91 does not have this feature
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#7
So far the print I'm running now has been going for about 2 hours and hasn't stopped, so hopefully that's a good sign

EDIT: First nearly 7 hour print after fiddling with the connector came out great. No decoupling nor other errors and the print looks wonderful. I don't know if it''s just my imagination, but it really seams like .92 generates better results for me. I'm working on the second part of my print which is another nearly 7 hour print. 2 hours in so far and all is well. I'll be replacing that connector soon.
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#8
Guys,

I recently flashed to .92 and just got the decoupling issue for the first time. The bummer is that I was around 6 hours into a 7 1/2 hr print.

Can I ask which connector is giving the issue? Is it the 2 black wires connecting into the extruder board, or the connector that connects the heater wires (black connector that connects the white wires)?

I had also read in another thread that if you compiled the FW with PWM vs PDM it would also go away.

Is this still the case?

Thanks in advance.
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#9
It's usually the connector. I just soldered the wires together as a stop gap.
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#10
Thanks for the response.

Which connector is it though?
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#11
PWM vs PDM issue is when repurpose fan for manual control is set, and condition is already implemented, also if soldering do not work there is a flag to disable decouple feature in configure.h
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#12
Thanks luc. Can you show me a pic of what exactly to solder together?
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#13
well I never have to do it so cannot take picture sorry
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#14
Start at the extruder, follow the heater cartridge wires up, you'll find a shitty little black plastic connector. I wouldn't solder it since that will prevent you from removing the hotend easily for maintenance. Replace it with a better connector.
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#15
Sorry, I was out of town.

I soldered mine as a stop gap to get it working. I have since replaced it with a deans connector from the local hobby shop used for radio control vehicles. It is nice and heavy duty.
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#16
Thanks for the response. One question: how did you figure out which of the two wires was positive? Thanks.
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#17
The polarity for the heater and thermistor do not matter.

Kieth
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