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XYZ Bushings Loose
The black plastic Z bed platform was so loose on the guides, it could wobble the bed sideways.
Not only the printer had a bad vibration(belts/bushings) but had a Z wobble on one side of my prints.

The bronze guide bushings in the 1.0 are glued in and I found (6) loose.
The pairs are found at the right Z rod, back X rod, left Y rod.
The ones loose are seated in the open "U" points of the carriers.
Bushings that are completely enclosed in the carriers seem to be tightly in place.

I completely disassembled the rail systems. Lots of little screws. :ohmy:
Cleaned bushings of hardened glue, roughed up the bushings and black plastic seats, degreased w/ acetone.
Used 5 minute JB Weld to thoroughly glue in all around bushing.
Its important to remove any oil/grease and to roughen up for the epoxy to get a bite on the parts.

Note: For the left Y and back X, when gluing, the bushings sit low in the U channel, preventing the rod to slide thru.
While the epoxy is hardening, slide a rod thru both bushings to level up.
I noticed both outside edges of the bushing channels rub slightly on the rod, trim off.

When apart, Ill install WCTEK tightness kit and find a better way for that X belt tensioner.

I thought of modding to LM8U linear bearings. But its a problem.
The bushings are 12mm OD, the bearings are 15mm.
The plastic carriers would have to be lined up straight for drilling and reaming to be seated properly.
You are absolutely correct.. The fix of gluing the bushings has been reported previously, but thats not to say a reminder is bad. Smile

There are lots of other little tweaks floating around, see the circles thread, the hardware mod threads, etc. The Da Vinci is not a bad printer out of the box, but there are many things that can be tweaked which in the end will result in the quality of $1500-$2000+ dollar printers.

You may call it tweaking, I say it's repairing.

Disassemble the printer is not necessary. The JB Weld I used did not stick to the plastic bushing holders.
And bushings would not align w/ rods.
Had to remove all JB Weld.

The "floating" bronze bushings are aligned while assembled.

I switched to DevCon Plastic Welder. JB Weld makes a PlastiWeld also.
Reassembled each piece and tilted printer on sides, so open bushings would point up.
This helped the epoxy to lay over bushing and creep in between plastic holder. Used toothpicks to push epoxy in.
The DevCon hardened like cement to the plastic.
Check out this for the x axis tensioner it is what i did and it works great. I would recommend under sizing the model to 98% before printing.
The problem I see with gluing the left Y bushings with JB Weld or something similarly strong is that you'll have a hard time if you ever need to take apart the X carriage, right? I don't think you can do it without releasing the left Y carriage from its bushings.
You can release the rod itself but it is more of a pain.You have to take the clips loose that hold the rod and then slide it out. You also have to take more of the printer apart. Smile

I have not glued any of my bushings. I used a fake butter (margarine, which should be illegal, lol!) plastic lid and cut shims. I then smashed the shims with a hammer to allow them to wrap around the bearing and press in place. Note that I did not need to do this with Andy's carriages, so now only my z has the shim.


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