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My Arduino/Ramps install
On my marlin I can move motor even endstop are not connected, fw just considers 0 pos where motor is positioned where power up and won't go to negative position,
so can only go to one direction first, then when no more in what it was the 0 pos, it can go back, only home command can make it work in negative position when endstop are disconnected.
but in all cases even no endstop you can test motors
Still messing with the steppers. I can get them to barely move using pronterface as long as I only move them very short distances like 1mm.
It seems like the stepper driver boards are not strong enough to properly move the stepper motors. I have tried to adjust the pots on the driver boards but it has almost no affect. This includes the Z axis.
Kind of a head scratcher at this point.
Have you tried reversing one pair of wires to a single stepper to see iif maybe the polarity is wrong?

Change to

Ita just a guess.

I have tried every conceivable combination of wiring and nothing works. Hoping to get the exact stepper settings for the Davinci and try that.
I am starting to think the stepper drivers are junk.
Ok while controlling the ramps board with the added display for the board, I got the stepper motors to move every once in a while. It is better than using pronterface via USB but still erratic as hell. Z axis doesn't move at all. The weird thing is that all the stepper motors make noise like they are moving but very little happens. I have tried adjusting the stepper driver pots, changing the step settings in Marlin, every combination of wiring possible and still the stepper motors just make noise and move every once in a while.
Does anyone know what the voltage of the Da vinci steppers is? I assume it is 12 volts.
Well I just figured out why the stepper motors weren't working Blush Apparently each stepper driver board is required to have three small jumpers in place to make them operate properly. Nowhere on this planet was this mentioned in any instructional or on any video I watched except one. I re-watched this one particular video over and over to try to see what I was missing and just a moment ago I saw what looked like three small jumper on the ramps board that was being tested. So I gave it a shot and it now the motors work as expected.
[Image: DSC02870.jpg]
Hi chris,

good to hear you've got the problem solved.. I'm just wondering, will you not put a heat sink over the pololu and are you going to have two extruders or just one?
Also, so is there no way of connecting the opti endstops from da vinci to ramps 1.4 board and how/where would one put a resistors on?
Or is it easier to just swap them for mechanical ones?

here are some instructions (including jumpers Smile) about ramps 1.4:

If the links are inappropriate I apologise.

Assuming the leds in the endstop are typical ir with a1.2 volt drop and 20ma rating....then the pull up resistor by math would be 560 ohms. Personally i would start with a 1k to 1.5k and move down if required. The less current applied the longer the led will last, and leds will often work at substantially less current than you might think.

Hi Kieth,

thanks for the answer. I've found some 1k online and I'll go with that. But I'm lost on how to put them on so it might be good if someone shed some light on the subject Smile
Also, do you maybe have any idea on how to connect two extruder fans and one mobo fan on ramps 1.4. Is it even possible?
Or is this a better idea:
I've not had such a use for ramps yet, so i can't answer other than to say i know some people just parallel the extruder fans.

For the endstop this should be what you are after.

+12 of power supply
| VCC of end stop
| >> signal of endstop to pcb
Ground of endstop to ground of power supply.
Yes apparently you can use the Davinci end stops with the proper resistors but I couldn't get it to work because I scorched mine. Here is the only drawing I can find that shows the resistors in line with the Da vinci 3 wire type opti end stop.
I am only running one extruder and I will be attaching the heat sinks to the stepper boards before I run it much.
[Image: diagram2.jpg]
This schematic will work if using 5 volts. My rough drawing was for 12 volts. The small red led and 560 ohm series resistor are only needed if you want a visual confirmation of the end stop. The 10k ohm pull up resistor is not needed in most cases. So, this schematic is Beyer in the sense of adding the visual, but in practice i prefer minimal parts. Jmo.

Thanks for posting, is definitely nicer looking than my poor ascii abilities! Lol!
Small cation to add- if you connect the small red led DO NOT use the 12 'olt supply - it could possible damage the MCU because of the constant voltage paying through the led to the mcu sense pin. (Mcu is rated 3.3 volts.) For this reason, i recommend eliminating the red led and is associated series resistor. But again, it should work fine in 5 volts because of the village do through the red led.

hi guys,

thanks for the explanation. I've went ahead and also ordered the c version of this mobo:
We'll see what happens, I've got my ramps 1.4 here also, but I'm not really soldering/mechanical savvy (and afraid I'll burn something), so I'll probably wait for the chitu v31 to come and sell ramps along the way.
If anybody has any experiences with that board let me know or if you think there could be some problems with it.
I took the c version because I'm making a davinci 1.0 a dual e3d machine with andys modified carriage.

thanks again for the help
I rigged the LED strip to work with 12 volts dc. I bridged the traces for the negative side of the LED's and added a 20 ohm resistor to keep the LED's from over heating. It all works great. I couldn't get it to work properly any other way.

[Image: ledresistor.jpg][Image: LEDinstalled1.jpg][Image: LEDinstalled2.jpg][Image: DSC02872.jpg]
Here's a couple of pictures of the way I mounted the Arduino to the case and the new heat bed.
I used 3mm "stand-offs" one inch tall, male x female to mount the board. I drilled three 2.5mm holes in the chassis of the printer and tapped them to 3mm. I only used three stand-offs because the way the Arduino is made, a 3mm screw wouldn't fit in one of the holes.
The new bed consists of a piece of borosilicate glass and a new heater. The heater is slightly larger than the Davinci heater and glass so I had to trim off two of the edges of the Davinci platform to fit the new heater and glass. Also a picture of the new 100k ohm thermistor taped to the bottom of the heat bed temporarily,

[Image: boardstandoff.jpg][Image: heatbednew.jpg][Image: platform1.jpg][Image: thermistor100kbed.jpg]
Well its a success so far. I am printing my first print after 8 hours of installing end stops and tweaking the Marlin software. My first print looks really good in fact better than the repetier firmware with the Davinci board. The layer lines are almost non existent. I will go thru my install in more detail as well as figure out a way to make available the tweaked Marlin firmware when its tweaked a little better and I get a little more time. Also need to tidy up a few of the wires still but I am so relieved just to get it running again.

[Image: DSC02888.jpg][Image: DSC02889.jpg][Image: DSC02890.jpg][Image: DSC02891.jpg]
Congratulations man! Good job on installing those mechanical end stops. Looking forward to read your write up with the details and hopefully pics Smile
Im not the best at write-ups be here goes....

This is how I did it. You may choose to do it different. I wont list every little detail because there was so much to the learning curve that I could write for days to note every little detail. Some of which I have already posted in this thread.
Ramps 1.4 board with smart controller and lcd
Arduino (clone) Mega 2560
One pin Connector wires. I bought 40 of them and had a few left over

Mechanical End stops, 3 wire, with pcb built in
2 pin connectors for replacing factory connectors, adapting to existing wires, etc.

20 ohm 1 watt resistor for the LED strip
Four 3mm x 1" male x female stand offs for mounting the arduino to the chassis (2mm would have been better but I couldn't find any)
Thermistor 100k ohm for the heat bed

JB weld epoxy
Heat shrink

Soldering iron
screw drivers
T10 Torx driver
Drill and bits
Side cutter
Label maker
Wire stripper
Multi meter
Digital caliper
Hot air gun for heat shrink
Ceramic screwdriver
Arduino 2.0
Repetier Host
Marlin firmware

I began my install by learning as much as I could about how it is done. Its sort of like a jigsaw puzzle with bits and pieces everywhere. Youtube and the Voltivo forum were the best resources I found.
Replacing the control board can be done with a few different types of boards that are available today. New boards are coming out all the time. I chose the Ramps 1.4/Arduino Mega 2560 combination because I found it to be a more common install and information was more available.
I removed the Davinci board and began to identify all the wires and label each and every one. The Davinci board is labeled and makes for a good reference when tracing wires. Take photos of the davinci board while it is installed for reference.
Wires I used were the stepper wires, Thermistors, Heaters, End stops, LED, Fan.
Wires not used were the door sensor, bed level sensor.
I mounted the Arduino to the chassis first thing.
Stepper wire colors are slightly different than most. The davinci stepper wire order is yellow-red-blue-orange.
Every wire to be connected to the Ramps board needs to have the Davinci connectors removed and new single pin connectors soldered to each wire, with exception of the heaters and fan which will be left bare. Only do this after properly identifying and labeling each wire. I kept the wire colors of teh single pin connectors the same as the davinci wires where appropriate such as the steppers. The Thermistors, bed heater and extruder heater are not polarity sensative so color matching wires isn't necessary. Just make sure they are labeled.
Stepper wire are labeled as follows:
X axis
End stop X
Y axis
End stop Y
Z axis
End stop Z
Extruder heater
Bed heater
Extruder 1 stepper
LED pos
LED neg
12 volt in
Thats about it for labeling. The end stop wires are labeled at both ends since I replaced the opti end stops with mechanical ones. My mech end stops are three wire which are colored red (+)-black(G)-yellow(S)
Davinci end stop wires are red(Y axis) – yellow(Z axis) – orange(X axis)
The four stepper boards are sensative to which way they are installed in the ramps board. The small adjusting screw will face away from the power input to the ramps board.

Mechanical end stops
I replaced my optical ends stops with mechanical end stops because I ruined the opti stops by hitting them with 12 volts which they are not rated for. There is a way to use the optical end stops and that information can be found elswhere in the forums.
Each Davinci end stop is mounted to a removable plastic mount with exception of the X end stop that is mounted in the rod support for the X-Y axis.

Z end stop modification
I removed the Z end stop mount and removed the opti end stop. I basically trimmed the davinci mount to fit the mech end stop and used epoxy to secure it in place. This was done for the X and Y end stops as well. With the mech end stop in the mount, the end stop sits about 5mm lower than it was with the davinci end stop. This affects the bed height for leveling the bed. I removed 5mm from the top of the mount to shorten it and place the switch higher which allows for proper bed leveling. The mount is 90 degrees and I drilled a new mount screw hole in the chassis to secure the end stop mount.

Y end stop

[Image: 2pinconnectors.jpg][Image: 100kthermistor.jpg][Image: Boardconnectors.jpg][Image: DSC02895.jpg][Image: DSC02896.jpg][Image: DSC02898.jpg][Image: DSC02900.jpg][Image: DSC02901.jpg]
I chose to not try to use the PCB in the extruder. I cut the wires to the thermistor and fan and soldered on new 2 pin connectors. The extruder stepper and heater have connectors that work and do not need to be replaced.

End stops

Ramps/Arduino setup

X end stop

Z end stop alignment

The first thing I did was to get Arduino 2.0 up and running with the proper board drivers. The process can be found elsewhere in the forums.
With Arduino working and my Arduino Mega recognized by the computer, I uploaded the Marlin firmware to the Arduino board. I found that Repetier was easier than others to control my board. I used the steps and information in the “repetier Davinci Duo” firmware to set up my Marlin firmware. Its a good base to start tweaking from.[Image: DSC02908.jpg][Image: endstops.jpg][Image: rampsboard.jpg][Image: DSC02907.jpg][Image: DSC02912.jpg]

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