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My Arduino/Ramps install
#1
Well I took the leap and installed a ramps arduino set up in my Da Vinci 1. I plan to do a proper write-up as soon as I get this all working. Right now I just need help.
Here is my first issue,
I uploaded the Marlin firmware to the Arduino and I am using Prontorface to control the motors.
I cant get my stepper motors to move properly. They make noise like they are moving but just kind of jerk back and forth a little. What am I missing?
I have wired them in a couple of different ways but no luck.
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#2
try another wiring - it just means wiring is not correct
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#3
Wiring isn't the problem. The problem is my lack of understanding of what I am doing Smile
I still have nothing working properly. I cant get the bed temps or the hot end temps to register. Come to find out Da Vinci uses a thermistor for the hot end and a thermocouple for the bed temps. The steppers still just make noise and jerk around a little.
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#4
what did you wired until now ? temp sensor ? heater ? fan? extruder? motors? lcd? keypad?
some introductions
http://www.my-home-fab.de/Dokumentations...AMPS-14/en
http://airtripper.com/1145/marlin-firmwa...-up-guide/
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#5
I have wired everything. I tried to pull everything back off the board except the steppers and still get no movement. I suspect the Marlin firmware I am using needs to be modified but at this point I don't know how to do that. I know this can be done since there have been others that have been successful at it. The Marlin firmware looks for thermistors and not thermocouples as far as I can tell. Even so, the thermistor for the bed heater doesn't show up.
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#6
Have you adjusted the stepper drivers?

Did you decide what you are going to do with the damaged motherboard? I would still be interested in purchasing it.

Kieth
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#7
did you set you have heated bed ?
#define TEMP_SENSOR_BED 1

for thermistors tables did you identified which ones to use ?
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#8
Keith you wont like what I did with the old Davinci board............I tried to remove the old chip myself and as expected didn't do a very good job. I screwed up three traces. It still might be salvageable and since I got two new chips in the mail I think I am going to give it a go one more time.
I fried my arduino somehow and I suspect my computer or the usb cable is what is cooking my printer boards. I have no idea how but it is too coincidental that three boards have now failed on the same computer. I have replaced all my usb cables and have two new arduino boards on order. With the new boards I am going to monitor the voltage from my computer to see if something weird is going on.
Until I get the boards I am stalled.
Luc, In Marlin there are only two entries for thermocouples and neither of them work. I am replacing the bed thermocouple and extruder thermistor with new thermistors with known resistance values to simplify things.
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#9
This where I am at with the install.
I have received two new Arduino mega boards, one as a back up. I have got everything wired back up and still get no significant stepper movement. I have went through the Marlin firmware configuration and set it up similar to how it was described on a youtube video tutorial. Nothing changes the stepper movement. I am trying to control my board through pronterface. I have the thermistors wired and properly selected in the Marlin firmware but cant get any real readings through pronterface. I have discovered that the Davinci end stops will not work if directly wired to the ramps board. They apparently need a set of resistors and a led in order to work with the ramps board. I know there is another person on this forum that has done the ramps/arduino install on a Davinci and says he did it successfully but in order to get it done successfully he would have had to make some major changes with the Davinci machine to make it work. I wish I knew what he did to make it all work because I am having no success at this point. I am sure as I learn more about all this that I will get more stuff working. For now I am trudging forward.
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#10
It is possible the vcc pin of the sensors needed a resistor in line. It appears they connect directly to an infrared led, with an ir detector on the other side to sense if the ir light is present or not. If i am looking at this correctly, connection without a resistor would damage the sensor. In such a case, it might be the easiest thing to do would be to install some mechanical end stop switches.

To bad on board. It's not for the faint to try changing that chip. Sad

Kieth
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#11
Keith, like I said the board is probably salvageable by someone more skilled at fixing traces than I am. I have been practicing on old boards and got a new USB microscope to help see the little traces. I used my hot air reflow station to remove the chip and thought it was loose but the traces came up with very little effort. The need to be delicate with the board is an understatement.
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#12
I am definitely considering mechanical end stops.
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#13
do you have a picture of your wiring and one of your connected ramps from top ?
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#14
On traces lifted - there are a few possibilities :
1) hot air was not hot enough. This requires extended heating time which gives traces longer exposure and well you know...
2) hot air was to hot, usually drastically. If you are using a low end reflow station make sure to calibrate the temp - I've seen some that are 75C off!
3) perhaps you used to small of a tip. This causes localized heating and swelling which can rip the traces.
4) Try your next experiment in unsoldering a chip with the board upside down at a 45 degree angle give or take. Wear gloves so you don't drop anything hot on you. This will allow the chip to fall off of the board when the solder reaches the correct temperature, negating the need for you to lift up and possibly tear traces. Note that this only works on chips that are not glued in place.

For repairing the trace, buy some DOLLAR STORE (yes, really! ) speaker wire. It is cheap, and so is the wire. Which is good. You will usually find the strands which make up this 22ga (18 if you are lucky, lol) wire will be copper and extremely thin. It's perfect for soldering close to the chip directly to the board, then solder the other end directly to the chip m this can be easier if the lead on the chip is bent up slightly.

Hope this helps.
Kieth
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#15
I have wired the opti end stops as per a drawing I found here https://capolight.wordpress.com/2010/11/...errupters/
Well it doesn't work. I think I may have fried my end stops after hooking them directly to the ramps board who the hell knows. I am going to go with mechanical end stops.
Here's a picture of the boards mounted. The only wires on it are for the steppers and power.
[Image: DSC02869.jpg]
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#16
Quote:On traces lifted - there are a few possibilities :
1) hot air was not hot enough. This requires extended heating time which gives traces longer exposure and well you know...
2) hot air was to hot, usually drastically. If you are using a low end reflow station make sure to calibrate the temp - I've seen some that are 75C off!
3) perhaps you used to small of a tip. This causes localized heating and swelling which can rip the traces.
4) Try your next experiment in unsoldering a chip with the board upside down at a 45 degree angle give or take. Wear gloves so you don't drop anything hot on you. This will allow the chip to fall off of the board when the solder reaches the correct temperature, negating the need for you to lift up and possibly tear traces. Note that this only works on chips that are not glued in place.

For repairing the trace, buy some DOLLAR STORE (yes, really! ) speaker wire. It is cheap, and so is the wire. Which is good. You will usually find the strands which make up this 22ga (18 if you are lucky, lol) wire will be copper and extremely thin. It's perfect for soldering close to the chip directly to the board, then solder the other end directly to the chip m this can be easier if the lead on the chip is bent up slightly.

Hope this helps.
Kieth
Thanks Keith.
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#17
If you have a diode test on your meter (assuming you have a meter ) you can test the end stop. It will test like a diode between VCC and signal, and between VCC and ground.

Kieth
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#18
Quote:If you have a diode test on your meter (assuming you have a meter ) you can test the end stop. It will test like a diode between VCC and signal, and between VCC and ground.

Kieth
Well the opti end stops are cooked. I am waiting for a set of three mechanical end stops. The install will be interesting since the Davinci end stop mounting is set up for the optical en stops. I see there is a new board on the horizon called CBD Chitu V3.1 3D Printer Main Board. Its about 75.00 USD and looks very promising.
Here's the link
http://3dfilamenta.com/en/motherboards/2...ml#/type-c
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#19
seems they provide their fw also

Type A: Single extruder motherboard (Thermistor) + 2.8 inch touch screen ( 68,59 USD)

Type B: Single extruder motherboard (Thermocouple) + 2.8 inch touch screen (72,59 USD)

Type C: Double extruder motherboard (Thermistor) + 2.8 inch touch screen ( 75,59 USD)

Type D: Double extruder motherboard (Thermocouple) + 2.8 inch touch screen (87,59 USD)

Type E: Single extruder motherboard (Thermistor) + 3.5 inch touch screen (74,59 USD)

Type F: Single extruder motherboard (Thermocouple) + 3.5 inch touch screen (78,59 USD)

Type G: Double extruder motherboard (Thermistor) + 3.5 inch touch screen (81,59 USD)

Type H: Double extruder motherboard (Thermocouple) + 3.5 inch touch screen (93,56 USD)
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#20
I have made progress with the Ramps setup.
So far I have a properly working heat bed, HB thermistor (100k), hot end heater, HE thermistor (100k) and extruder fan.
The original Davinci heat bed thermistor is a 300k. There are no provisions in Marlin for a 300k thermistor so I replaced it with a 100k. The original Davinci hot end thermistor is a 100k so it works good.
My steppers still don't work right. I am assuming that without a working end stop the firmware wont let the steppers work. This is the only thing I can guess at this point and I wont know until I get a set of end stops installed.
Onward.
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