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WARNING: Do NOT use the custom FW on 1.0.1 DaVincis
#1
...at least this is my experience: You will NOT be able revert back to the stock firmware and it will NOT work...

Just saying...
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#2
Elaborate please.

Did you means 1.0 I ?

What did you tried so far?
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#3
What pmbdk means is that the latest versions of da Vinci 1.0 have a different motherboard. Looks like this motherboard is the same as the AIO but without components for the scanner, etc. (Just like the old da Vinci 1.0 had the same motherboard as the 2.0 Duo, minus the 2nd extruder components.) This board is using 1.0.1 FW (one.zero.one) where as the latest FW for the old board is 1.2.3 . Looks like there is a new FW fork for the new motherboard.

Also some of the pins that control z-axis, bed heater, and case leds have been changed. So at the moment luc, ogremustcrush, and others that are working on changes to the custom firmware so Repetier can be used instead of XYZware. This is still a work in progress.

Anyone who has erased their firmware doesn't have the binary files for 1.0.1 FW to get back to a stock standard printer. 1.1.J and 1.2.3 don't work because of the hardware changes. I think I read in another thread that someone was able to upload 1.0.3 FW and it still didn't work. I don't know if it was the correct FW or if XYZ have done something sneaky. There might be some code in another part of flash the FW looks at to know that the FW hasn't been erased. This would've be uploaded separately and doesn't get over written on an update.

For more information have a look at this thread.
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#4
Hi all,just a quick one.Is any one working on a fix or update for the new XYZ printers?
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#5
Currently the 0.92 version of luc's firmware seems to work ok, although I havn't tested everything. This is still early alpha status, I guess. There is currently no way to get back to stock firmware afaik...
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#6
Thanks for the reply,i guess i'll hold on the custom FW until more testing has been done.
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#7
So is there a reliable way to identify what version DaVinci one has? Seems like with all the identifying characteristics on the boards/serial numbers/etc we should be able to say definitively "this is ok" or "this is not". For example, based on the picture of my board below, I believe I have an "old" rev board (note stenciled "MB R5" and "2013/12/26" as well as my SD card being on right and not in center). I've not seen a picture of the "new" motherboards so can't compare the stencil markings on them.[Image: IMG_0008.jpg]
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#8
Your board is the older version.
The newer board has no JP1 jumper near the processor, it has J37 instead.
The newer board has the driver chips all mounted directly on the board, instead of on the sub-boards on the old version.
The newer board also has unpopulated connectors for LASER1 and LASER2, old one doesn't.
On new board markings are JH M3 94V-0 2014-06-09
New board has Micro SD card near centre of the board, instead of standard SD at the right edge.

Here's a picture of the new board, I borrowed it from this post ogremustcrush - New kind of Mainboard; no J1 Erase Jumper
[Image: IMG_20141204_0733241.jpg]
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#9
This is my board, it looks exactly as you described, except that the date is a couple of months later.
Am I right in thinking that the J37, below the micro SD card, is the reset jumper that used to be called J1?
[Image: 20150518_103151.jpg]
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#10
Hi All,

[delurk!] Been studiously reading the forum the last few days waiting for my new 1.* to arrive.

As predicted, I have a 1.0a, J37 appears where I'd expect. Firmware is identified as 1.0.1

I'm assuming this thread is now dated, and Luc's _outstanding_ work has now superseded the original admonishment not to flash a 1.0.1 printer, correct?

I'm printing a couple spool hangers now with my shiny brand new printer, once they're done, I'm planning (pending Forum.Wisdom!) to flash my printer tomorrow.

Thank you again Luc (and all who worked on making a realistic firmware a reality! Without you, I'd never have bought one!), and also to Daniel G. whose video really sold me on the possibility of getting a quality printer once the firmware was brought over to Repetier!
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#11
Hi Jodie,
Welcome to the forum.
Like you, I have been reading all the Repetier stuff with a lot of excitement.
I would love to flash mine too, but not being very up on all the 3D software yet, I have been reluctant. In case I end up bricking my nice new printer.
My Printer is the same as yours except that I have firmware 1.0.3
I would be very interested to hear your experience, and of course, any advice you may have.

I wish you all the luck in the world with your upgrade and look forward to hearing all about it.
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#12
Yes FW has been reported working on 1.0a/2.0a and even AiO but of course without the scanner feature as not supported.
So far no one reported a missing feature - so should be same level as 1.0/2.0
Be aware: still no way to revert to stock FW once repetier is flashed due to some encryption implemented with latest generation FW
The only way to revert is to send board back to support for a reflash
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#13
That is the main reason for my reticence, I am happy to flash just about anything, but the fact that there is currently no way to retrograde the flash is a worry for me.
If I find a way to replace the main board, rather than flash the current one, I would be happy to have a crack at it.
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#14
Thanks!

I found a compelling (really compelling) reason to switch firmware so I can run software not XYZware.

Memory utilization in XYZware slicer appears to be limited to 2GB. Slicing a complex object, 45minutes in, CPU load is 0-4%, memory utilization has been pegged at 2GB the entire time with 24-26GB free in a machine with 32GB of physical RAM (Windows 7 Ultimate 64bit, 3.8Ghz AMD quad core)

My solution to problems is always to just throw more hardware at them, but obviously throwing more hardware at this won't make any difference. I have a shiny new dual 8 core Xeon sitting behind me with 256GB of RAM and a TB of fast SSD - and pushing it over here and installing an OS on it would be completely unhelpful. That's just silly. Someone let XYZ know the 90's called and wants their 32 bit process limit back...

---

Thanks Spike, welcome to you as well! Smile I'm going to give this another hour or so to slice, and if it doesn't finish, I'll probably abort it and start giving some thought to flashing the printer. I already printed my aftermarket filament hangers. Smile
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#15
Ok - when the printer was doing what I wanted, I was unmotivated to mod it. That lasted all of, what, 12 hours? B)

The Beast is now on new firmware, Repetier 0.92.

Flashing it was totally anticlimactic. I took a fine pair of tweezers I use for SMT pick-and-place, turned the printer off, shorted J37, switched it back on with my other hand, waited a few seconds, turned it off, pulled off the tweezers, turned it on - two black bars.

Patched the Arduino install as directed, ran through the checklist, compiled, uploaded ... [beep beep!] It's on the modded firmware.

Now I have to re-level the bed, and figure out how to use a whole new set of software, then I can try printing something for the first time...again...

Micro controllers... short a couple pins and they're virgins again.. Wink

[img]
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#16
Wow! Thats fantastic :cheer: ... I am really very tempted to follow in your very capable footsteps, maybe over the weekend.
Which post did you follow the steps from?
I would welcome your experience with s/w and which you prefer and which is easiest for a novice like me :unsure:

I have a support ticket open with XYZ ... I have passed on your comments about the 90's
I'm betting they don't have a SOH that you and I do Smile
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#17
Thank you again for the kind words!

Believe it or not - I followed 'TFM. Wink

Page 2 of the Firmware-0.92 Github under "Current Status" "Alpha 1 - ready for testing" has an "Installation" section.

I went through each of the 12 steps in order, putting a checkmark next to each step as it was complete, and underscoring things that were multiple choice or "must", then putting a checkmark next to those when complete. (Step 10, for example)

From there, I installed Repetier Host, MeshMixer (because I'm familiar with it and it's easy to crank stuff out, easier than SolidWorks (!!!), for example.), loaded a model in Repetier Host, putzed around with the settings, then failed to send it to the printer (as you saw in the other thread, ultimately worked-out with printer settings)

Really, it was terribly easy, the instructions were extremely well written. Downloading software took FAR longer than actually getting it running.

I suggest, however, printing out a spool holder with "genuine" supplies before cutting over so you can switch right away to generic filament. Save some time and trouble that way. I just grabbed one that looked good off of Thingiverse. I'll end-up printing some bearings for it, and replace the pencil-as-axle with some threadrod at some point.
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#18
Yep, I followed it too, I'm a real stickler when it comes to following procedures, especially when it's written by such knowledgeable people.

You're quite right, in hind-sight it was very easy. My stumbling block was that I've only had experience of 123D and XYZWare (Pardon my language) so it's been quite a steap learning curve for me.

I finally got it to stick to the bed, it turns out it needed a Z-Offset ... I sure it would just be a setting in Slic3r.
Still got to fine-tune it though because the first layer still isn't 'spreading' like it used to before the flash, but that is just a case of trial and error on my part.

My downloads don't take long at all, but then I am blessed with a fast pipe here ... boys and our toys eh Smile

I already have a spool holder. I brought a resetter from WCTEK.com a while back. The best spool holder in my opinion is this one http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:318527 if you look on my remake, you will see that I had to do a little tweaking, but it works perfectly.

I still have a lot of learning to do, but thats most of the fun, it's why we hack isn't it Smile

Thank you all so much, I would never have got anywhere near where I am without you all.
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#19
Thanks, I checked out your remix spool holder - pretty cool! I've been thinking I need to print a set of bearings for mine, just haven't gotten around to it.

I had some problems today blowing-up prints not sticking, the parts were just too small, even with a raft they didn't want to stick. I went back to glue-stick-on-tape and I've had no issues in 14hrs of solid printing dozens of small parts. [shrug] It's all a learning curve! (and definitely why we Hack...and Make!)

Oh - and I had to figure out how to edit my profile so I wouldn't get lumped in there with you boys and your toys! :kiss: Tongue
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#20
I don't have any bearings on mine, just use it as it is. Not had any issues so far.

When I first got my printer I used the glue that they supplied, but quickly read on here how to level the bed properly, and never used any glue or tape since.
Before the move to Repetier the initial strip down the right of the bed was always 'spread flat' with very good adhesion. This has resulted in a few coming unstuck, even with raft/brim, these were small prints too. However, now it always looks like a bead, round rather than flat. I've been tweaking the Z_offset and so far it's up to -0.4 which takes the bed to -0.5 for the first layer, which seams wrong to me.
I'm gonna have another go today and hopefully get better adhesion.

You wouldn't want to be mistaken for one of us gadget boys would you Smile
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