I've seen the posts that a few members have successfully swapped in a E3D or a j-head hotend. I wanted to take this a step further and want to move the extruder to a bowden style to take more weight off the carriage. Has anyone else been working on this? I'm considering printing a Wade's or Greg's style extruder and mounting in ontop of the chasis.
Just curious if anyone else is interested in this, and if so not to duplicate work that has already been accomplished. Thanks!
I'm curious about a Bowden conversion as well.
I'm waiting on some m3 screws and some push fittings for my PTFE tubing to come in. But this is what I am thinking...
Thinking I am going to print and mount this for the extruder..
and then modify/print this for the carriage.
I'll try to take some pictures and will post if it makes any difference.
I've got a new E3Dv6 bowden extruder ready to fit on a Davinci Duo 2.0. The aim is to keep the stock rightmost extruder, and replace the left.
I'll be watching this thread closely
After a couple of weeks I have my E3D V6 Bowden up and running printing PLA & Ninja Flex
I went with Oilite bushes over LM8UU linear bearings as most LM8 bearings are crap quality and noisy+ I don't believe the Davinci 8mm rail are >52HRC
If anyone wants the cad drawings I can post them.
I drilled output so PTFE tube inserts right up to drive gear.
great work! I'd really appreciate it if you could post stl or cad files of the bowden extruder carriage. And also, could you provide some sort of list of things one might need for your type of extruder conversion?
STL & Solidworks CAD files below. Feel free to mod files as you please.
This is version 1 (kinda beta) but seems to work ok with minimal testing.
BTW Im a novice @ CAD design/solidworks.
Its quite alot of work, the oilite bearings are 4 off 8X12X20 i had to ream them out a little for malalignment, possibly better to use shorter bearings for reduced friction.
I will try to put a list of parts together tomorrow as printer lives at work.
thank you so much for the CAD files. I'm just finishing 3D animation study, so I have some knowledge about modeling, but I'm a newbie too, so we are all in the same boat
I'll probably order my e3d today and slowly start to print all the pieces that I need.
From what I can see from you pictures, I'll need (printable pieces):
Airtripper for bowden extruder: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:126778/#files
(You've posted a link, but it might be wrong, because the "thing" has only one piece..?)
Your carrier: https://www.dropbox.com/s/y4tykpkdfmzv3d...0.zip?dl=0
Open the file with WinRaR (CAD & STL files inside).
Yes the Chimera and Cyclops look awesome.
I would have more interest in the Cyclops (much less oozing) but its first production run so a little early for me right now.
I have a Divinci 1.0 so would need to look into second extruder, poss Ramps 1.4.
Ill try and do the list later and some more picks.
yeah, I've opened it with winrar
What I meant was, if I need any more files (apart from the ones you've posted on dropbox) and Airtripper.
Also, why do you think Cyclops would have much less oozing. On my stock extruder (DaVinci 1.0) there's almost no ooze while the extruder waits for the platform to heat up. I print at 230C.
And, could the existing motherboard be used (for Chimera and Cyclops) or you'd have to get a new one? Link: https://forum.voltivo.com/showthread.php?tid=8214
Bowden produces more ooze because at the end of a tool path the filament can't be retracted as quickly so its kinda like a delay in hot end feed.
Cura work well with this as it travels the tool inside object (where possible) at the end of tool path, Simplify3d wipe works well too + there's a coasting distance option aswell.
At the end of the day bowden & direct have there advantages.
As for board modifications i have no idea :S. There's a post that some guys changed the stepper motor drive board but there's more components missing than just 1 board.
thanks for the explanation. So, what are your retraction settings for the bowden setup? Do you have much oozing going on?
I'm using slic3r with modified xyz which has wipe option and travel tool inside option (avoid crossing perimeters?) so I think I'm good there.
I'm thinking about going bowden because I'd like to take some weight off the carriage and also, I really like your carriage.
Yeah, I agree, there's a couple of components missing from mobo for dual extrusion. Nevertheless, I'm pretty excited about setting up my E3D v6.
Did you maybe have any time to write some instructions and needed parts list?
The oozing isn't too bad, retraction settings of 45mm/s 4mm.
I went with the mod so i could print PLA for some work items, ABS had warp issues.
Your best bet would be to print out the parts I posted.
Approximate parts list is :-
PTFE tube and extruder fixings- ebay.co.uk/itm/Airtrippers-Bowden-extruder-METAL-PACK-Reprap-Rostock-DIY-3d-Printers-/321607050953?
Drive gear- ebay.co.uk/itm/201074065152?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&var=500255150012&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
4 Oilite bushes 8X12X20 but im not sure 20mm long is good if you don't have an adjustable reamer! I had to ream mine as were too tight poss sand down outer bearing housing.
Various fixings including 4offM3.5X40(Heatbreak clamp) 4offM3X12(Belt clamp) 4offM4X12(Layer fan), and a few more that i can't get to
Layer fan is the old extruder one. Dunno if you want me to post the extruder mount? its a bit crap but does the trick.
I printed the X carriage with the opto endstop facing down, that reminds me i bent a piece of 1mm steel and fixed it in place with self tapper for end stop.
thanks for the info about retraction and oozing. Yeah, some of my abs parts are warping too. Which brings me to the question, does the abs prints better now, that is have a fan blowing directly at the print area?
Thank you for the list, I'll get all the items described in it and have already printed everything except the carriage.. I'll try to modify it a bit.
About the bushes, I'm not sure if I understand fully, are they too long or the width is the problem. To my understanding, the reamer is used to to enlarge the size of a previously formed hole.
Yeah, please post the extruder mount files also.
Also, where do you connect the layer fan? Doesn't the e3d fan populate the same pins that the stock fan does? I maen, how do you connect and control them both?
And thanks for the opto endstop tip.
Not realy printed any ABS after mod as im working on parts i need for work in PLA.
ABS doesn't need a layer fan in fact it need keeping warm to minimise splitting.
im running repetier so you can repurpose the extruder cooling fan and run an independent supply to the new extruder cooling fan. So it connects as it was just operates differently.
As for the bushes, the longer they are the more friction they have and would also need better alignment. I would prob go with 8X16 or 8X12 and don't make them too tight in the housing
yeah, I just thought, if there is any less layer warping going on.
Do you have any suggestion which supply should I use for non-extruder cooling?
Thanks for the tip, I'll probably get the 8x16 and 8x12 and try which will fit better
Thanks for the bracket and I'll watch out for the tightness
The Bowden extruder I have in my Rostock max 2 from Seemee cnc works great. can be purchase at their website.
30mm retract speed
5.9mm retract amount
Absolutely no ooz
Cheers Joshua, ill give those settings a try
Hi Johny, im using an old laptop universal power supply i had booting about but anything would do if its 12v ofc
you will have to play with the retract amount, some hotends do not like more than 1 or 2 mm, but the stock max 2 hotend likes that amount.
Any chance you could post all of your files to thingiverse? Otherwise I can do it for you. I mentioned that you had this awesome setup over there and people want to try it but they don't really trust the Voltivo forum for some reason. Just a thought.