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Prints "porous" see attached
#1
Hi there,

I have been experimenting using slic3r and the modded XYZware that will read gcode. I'd been getting some reasonable results especially with the increased bed and extruder temps. See DSC_2024 - these were printed using XYZ green filament (landing gear extenders for my DJI Phantom). They don't look that bad to the naked eye, honest :-)

So then I changed filament back to the original white cart that came with the printer and still had about 87 metres. I reset it using an XYZap device, bed to 110, extruder to 215 and length to 240. Then I printed the space shuttle nose that is in the next photo, DSC_2025 and closeup in DSC_2026. Layer thickness was 0.1, fill 30%. See the holey effect. I'd also used slic3r in advanced mode instead of basic. Thinking I'd done something whacky with slic3r I tried again, setting the layer thickness to 0.2 and fill to 40% and went back to basic mode. The piece to the right of the shuttle nose is the result. I stopped it about 20 minutes in, similar effect.

So, I came back to day and instead of using slic3r, I just used XYZware to load the birdbath that comes with XYZware, exported the gcode and only changed the bed and extruder temps in the code. Next photo DSC_2027 is how it turned out. So not the external slic3r causing it.

I'm thinking that perhaps the filament didn't feed properly when I loaded it, but the ooze looks fine when it's sitting idle heating up (although not as much ooze as I saw with the green and white before that).

Any ideas? Should I unload and reload the filament, or unload and stick one of those wire things up there? The head doesn't look like there's anything stuck there that could be causing it. Baffling.

Any help much appreciated.

Cheers,

Pete






[Image: DSC_2024_resize.jpg][Image: DSC_2025_resize.jpg][Image: DSC_2026_resize.jpg][Image: DSC_2027_resize.jpg]
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#2
What firmware version do you have? If you have anything after version 1.1.G and you reset the cartridge it will mess up your prints like you posted. You will need to downgrade the firmware.
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#3
Well that blows. That tidbit of information must have slipped through the cracks, there's been so much information to assimilate since I got my printer. Mine is on J. I guess I will have to downgrade.

Ok, one more question - is the problem isolated to the cartridge, that is, will other carts that haven't been reset work as before?

Cheers,

Pete
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#4
Others that have not been reset will work normally but as soon as you reset them if on J. you will be back to poor prints again.

Most of us are on G and do not have any problems.
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#5
FYI, I just checked in an updated version of the code to github contributed by Matt a forum user.
It increments the serial number of the cartridge to prevent the newer firmware from detecting the hack.

best regards,

Oliver.
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#6
Hi Oliver that's great news. I have an XYZap V3, with the switch block, will your code still be compatible with this version? Reason I ask is that Alex's XYZap site says that he's now using a fork of your code, so my guess is if I use your code it will not be fully compatible with my XYZap. I will email Alex and see if he is willing to integrate the serial number incrementing code.

Cheers,

Pete
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#7
Pete, for the XYZAP, get the code from my site (http://www.wctek.com) in the download area as Oliver's code is not compatible with that resetter since I use the dip-switches. The update was released mid last month and fixes I and J compatibility issues.
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#8
Cheers, looking into getting the FTDI device so I can program my XYZap with the update.

Thanks for all the help!
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