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Printing for maximum strength?
#1
Hello gang,
This is my first post to this forum, but I have been lurking and learning for a couple of weeks now. Coincidentally about the same amount of time that I have had my Da Vinci!

My interest is primarily in making structural parts of one kind of or another. A phone holder for my bike which has a built in battery holder, a custom sized enclosure for the sous vide cooker that I'm building, etc. At least to start, I'm more interested in making something functional that pretty. If I can do both as my skills improve, then bonus!

I have learned a good bit on my own like sometimes you have to break things into sections so that you have strength where you need it. Actually, very similar to working with the grain in wood projects.

So the topic of his post/query is:
I would like to know your thoughts on what print settings use to get maximum bonding between layers. Fast vs. slow, tweaking temperatures, best material to use, etc.

Since I'm here, I will pose an additional question related to the first:
For the cooker project, I need an enclosure 180mm x 100 mm x 60 mm. Basically I'm printing a square tube with those inner measurements. Walls can be as thick as they need to be within reason. 2 mm resulted in some cracking, but I was running things as fast as possible since I'm not that worried about looks. Any guidance not covered by the main topic?

Any input is greatly appreciated!
Reagan

P.S. Looking forward to more hacking! Did the filament reader/writer and about to start researching and pulling it all together to get rid of XYZ entirely! You guys are amazing in what you have figured out how to do and I thank you! Fun community and I hope I can contribute down the line!
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#2
To me, the a slower speed will make something look better. But that is only what life has taught me in my 53 years of life itself.

So you need to build an enclosure and you want to print it. Why not print the sides then glue it together? I guess I am missing something as to me I would just go and get some plexiglass and make it in less time.
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#3
It is as much a learning experience as a practical endeavor. And I have just redone the design to make flat pieces that I glue together. Is slower just always the right answer for both strength and looks?
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#4
Not necessarily. As long as you have the heat temp right, it will adhere at high speeds too. At the same time, I would make my print at .1mm layers and 100% infill. I would also look into Acetone "baths" as it will melt the outside layers together, making it look nicer and bond stronger.
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#5
It has been shown that the acetone vapor baths penetrate many layers deep providing much greater strength.

100 percent infill does not always equate to a stronger part as internal stresses can increase a great many times leading to layer failures.

I did mounts for a cnc machine of 3 pieces that had tabs on the edge that went together and it was then glued and assembled. took me nearly as long getting the locking tabs finished and fitted as the printing itself and I ended up making a one piece part anyway.
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#6
Thanks all. As is normally the case, the more I learn, the more I realize how much more I still need to learn! I'm working on a acetone vapor bath now.
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#7
My moto has become, The older I get the more I know I don't know.
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#8
The other thing that has to be mentioned is the design of the model and layer orientation. In the design stage try and not use sharp right angled corners, these are always a point where stress can propagate a crack. A small fillet rounding off a corner will be much stronger. In design think about where stress is likely to come from and see if you can print it so as to make full use of the layer direction to improve it's strength.
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