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12V Power Failure ( 0030 Error , Light & motor not working )
#41
No i don't have a website, short of a few videos on YouTube.

Kieth
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#42
don't know what you mean by circled?

Kieth
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#43
Helps if i attach the picture haha[Image: 20150228_194858.jpg]
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#44
Check rv3 and rv4 under the same conditions you are checking rv5. The voltages will be different, but see if the behavior is the same with voltage in one side but not the other.

Kieth
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#45
I can't see the component values, but r47 and 57 appear to be used as fuses. Look for components around the leds and capacitors with the same markings as r47/57. Test them, I'm being one is going to show a very high resistance.

As for changing the part, it takes practice, but there are plenty of youtube vids showing how.

Kieth
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#46
so RV3 and RV4 reacted the same way but R47 right next to it has 5 going in and nothing coming out, the resistor that looks the same right below has 3.3 going in and 3.3 coming out. It is the white resistor on the left of RV3, that one is R57
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#47
Measure the resistance of r47 and r57. They should be the same. Since one is not passing voltage, i expect you will find it is open (very high resistance.) If so, it is likely open.

If the failure is in 3.3 or 5 volt section you may have mcu damage. To see what's involved with the swap search for my uh oh black bars thread.

Kieth
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#48
yeah the resistance is 16,000 ohms. Thanks for all of the help... if i can't fix it myself I might be contacting you. What is your youtube channel name?
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#49
You can change the part. All you need is a soldering iron, good solder, the part, and a practice pcb.

Find computer store that sells used stiff, plenty of smt parts to practice on.

Since you (i assume) won't have a hot air reflow station, it's still easy to do with a regular solder iron. You basically apply solder to both sides of the part abd tgen quickly go from one side to the other back and forth with the iron to get both sides of solder melted at the same time. Then you can push the part to the side with the iron. You then only have to install the new part.

How to Remove SMD Resistors & Capacitors Using a Regular Soldering Iron: http://youtu.be/8JM4oCpWnjU

This fun print will take you to my chanel. http://youtu.be/jF-ComjEP-Y


Kieth
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#50
If it is just a 0 ohm resistor, any suggestions on what to buy. I googled it and their were many different options. Also, I was poking around today and found that another resistor R271, has 12 volts going in and nothing coming out, so I assume that this one is bad also. I'm also not sure what the resistance is supposed to be on that. After watching those videos I think that I'll be able to replace them myself.
Thanks[Image: QuickMemo_2015-03-01-10-07-26.png]
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#51
I'm not sure the value of r271. maybe someone with the same board can test it for you and let you know the value.

Digikey has the resistor for r47 / r57. It is sometimes called a SMD jumper.

as I previously mentioned,I would start with replacing the one you are positive is defective and go from there.

Kieth
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#52
So a resistor like this would work?
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en...-ND/146726
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#53
Make sure the dimensions are the same. The resistor you linked to is 0.039" L x 0.020" W (1.00mm x 0.50mm)

Kieth
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#54
if you search the forum someone also posted a link to a suitable fuse.

Kieth
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#55
I looked at taking the board out today, and the cable for the LCD to the board was the last thing I need to unplug. Is their a special way to unplug it, or do i just pull?
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#56
Personally I would not pull out the board to do this repair. I would actually lay down a blanket or something and turn the printer over. If you feel you must pull the board, I would suggest being very careful with the LCD cable. There is a small tab that must be released before the cable can be pulled out or inserted.

Kieth
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#57
thanks for the advice, i'm glad that I didn't break anything.
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#58
So today I replaced R47, the LCD came back on. The only problem now is that in repetier host on my laptop, the heater is reading 392 degrees C at room temperature, and the heated bed won't heat up, attached below is a picture of what the LCD is showing, it appears that the firmware isn't detecting the temperatures, But on my laptop it appears that they are reading ok. Any thoughts?[Image: LCDpicture.jpg]
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#59
because temperature are over 300 degres FW consider there is a problem and generate sensor defect error - which is normal
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#60
So is there anything I can do to fix this? And why is the bed showing the same thing, or is that because of the 300 plus as well?
Thanks
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