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Negative X-axis Commands sent to Z-Axis??
When I move the x-axis in the negative direction, the z-axis motor moves. All other commands work fine. I have no clue what to do about it. Could be an error stemming from automatic bed leveling, however others have used auto-leveling (G32 S1) with no problems.
When auto level is enabled the z will move with x/y to keep the nozzle height exactly the same. So, the only way to stop it is to turn auto level off. Btw, i got tired of the auto level routine - it works but if you set the bed up manually, and correctly level it, there isn't a sick need for it as you might expect. I also found it was revealing a small z axis wobble that I don't see much of with auto level off.

I also dumped auto-leveling in favor of rewriting the G31 command code to beep until the signal from the probe goes LOW. This has the effect of letting me turn the thumbscrew slowly until the beeping stops and when I do that for all 3 points I know the bed is level. Having previously measured the difference in probe height vs. nozzle height I know to put a -.3 offset into KISSlicer and "Presto!" a accurate bed leveling process that takes very little time.

Just remember to heat the bed and extruder first or your offset will be wrong.

Changes to Commands.cpp follow:

case 31:  // G31 display hall sensor output
            Com::print(Printer::isZProbeHit() ? 'H' : 'L');
          do {
          } while (Printer::isZProbeHit() == 1);
            Com::print(Printer::isZProbeHit() ? 'H' : 'L');
Thanks I will try both of these, but to clarify, it's not just that the z-axis is adjusting, it's that the x-axis is not moving at all in the negative direction.
After all this I finally figured it out! When the y-axis moves past about 100mm or so, it was causing the x-min wires to fault. I hooked up to my oscope, and when you move the y-axis towards the door, or jiggle the wires, the switch goes high.
So it looks like one of the wires going to the end stop had fatigued. I cut it and spliced it back together. Problem gone.
I was looking at those wires just recently wondering how long it was going to take for mine to break.
That whole wire bundle really needs to be fixed differently.
Now that I know it probably IS going to break, I should find a way to strain relieve it or route it differently.
Thanks for the heads-up!

EDIT: another thought. Might be nice to have a simple diagnostic display in the firmware just to help find such things; if there isn't one already...

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