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Repetier firmware and repetier host How too and issues
#1
Ok I have the new firmware up and running but repetier wont connect. Is there a list of setup values for repetier somewhere?
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#2
Quote:Chris,
My printer refused to print using Repetier so I switch to Pronterface and it had no issues. I have no idea why Repetier just adds all the commands to the "Commands waiting" and doesn't actually print bu like I said, I couldn't get it to do it either. I even sliced a Gcode using the Slicr from Repetier, saved it to the desktop, opened it up in Pronterface and it printed fine.

I had the same issue as was in the process of tracking down USB driver issues when I saw this post by BGM and the key issue, for me, was not having selected "RepRapPro Duet Firmware."
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#3
Please lets keep this a clean concise thread, ask questions by creating new threads and post corrections or change suggestions in the appropriate thread. This will be regularly updated and corrected with the newest and most correct info possible.

Ok well lets start this off the and as time goes on and knowledge is gained we can adjust this first post to include all pertinent and important information to get one from the XYZware/xyz firmware to the custom firmware and repetier host software.

Ok first step

Install the firmware.
Do this using the alpha .BIN here
https://github.com/bgm370/dav10

or the da vinci fork on github here
https://github.com/bgm370/Repetier-Firmw...ee/davinci

In either case use the download zip on the right lower side of the page.

unzip this to an easy to use folder on you pc.

Next step will be to install the arduino IDE. I am not sure if other versions of the IDE will work but the 1.5.6-r2 version is recommended for it's DUE drivers that are included.
http://downloads.arduino.cc/arduino-1.5....indows.exe
and repetier host here
http://www.repetier.com/?wpdmact=process...aG90bGluaw==

for the .bin usage
OK so now we will open the XYZware and disconnect your internet connection
http://youtu.be/d_6mZ04AplM
choose the update firmware from the "about" button.
If you are using one of the more recent versions it has been suggested to install a prior version, namely the one included on the original CD. If you don't have it it can be retrieved here.
https://forum.voltivo.com/showthread.php?tid=7966
So click the ok and an explorer window will open allowing to browse to the downloaded and unzipped .BIN file. Choose it and your done.

Just for grins and giggles power off the printer and leave it off for 30+sec. Power back on and the arduino usb serial port drivers should install.
Open repetier and set it up as follows

http://youtu.be/JZjqr2-zwBc

on the Connection tab
connection = serial
transfer protocol=auto-detect
reset on connect= RepRapPro DUET Firmware
check box setting Use ping-Pong comunication

On the printer tab
Well this has less important settings but mine are as follows
Travel feed rate 4800
z-axis feed 100
default extruder temp 215
default heated bed 90
number of extruder 1
and all the other check boxes are checked

Tab printer shape
Classic printer
X Y ans Z homes = min

OK now it is 200x200 printable area but the print head has dead space off to the side for the cleaning area and so on.
But to make it easy just set x max 200 y max 200 and mins at 0 0. We will as a group come up with actual working numbers that are best and fill this in to what they actually need to be later. Please note that as expected these settings in the eeprom do not have a centered bed, considering we specified the homes at 0,0,0 this is to be expected. Again when more concrete numbers are found this will be edited.

That should be all that is needed to get the actual printer running on repetier.
That said I also put the z offest of -3.0 in the eprom in the config menu to allow for direct printing with No Z offset. Again this is not exact or perfect but works well for me on my set-up. Others add the z offset in slic3r. This z offset will depend on how you have adjusted the bed screws over the life of your machine and will not be the same as mine. So there are a few ways to set your z.

Use the auto leveling, to be discussed later

Manually adjust z table to be 0 as described here
ON YOUR PRINTER push the "OK" button and select "Quick Setting" and select "Home All". Once the print head "homes" itself, turn off your printer. This is done so you can easily move the print head to the four corners on the build platform. I had to lower the platform with the three bed screws before I could even move the print head on to the print bed. I adjusted all three screws so the extruder nozzle just touches the glass in all four corners of the glass. This should only be done after initially "homing" the print head as mentioned above. This gets the build table at its highest point where you fine tune the nozzle to glass clearance or lack of clearance.
With that done, turn the printer back on and push the "OK" button and select "Quick Setting" and select "Home All". You should now be safe to print with the proper clearance for the nozzle. contributed by chris
The only thing I would do differently in this is to use a piece of paper between the glass and the nozzle as a "feeler" gauge.

Edit eeprom config to be the 0 as it is. To do this,
Home machine. Use fast position menu to bring z to 10 and x and y to nominal positions for you to work with so that nozzel is above the glass working area, 50 50 should be good. take a scrap of paper and place it on the glass bed and lower the z till the paper just begins to grab in the gap. The z height is the negative value to add to the eeprom z position. IE my height was 3.0 I made z home position -3. Power cycle the machine. without homing and move the head around the build are to ensure there are no areas of dragging or excessive gaps.

here is an example eeprom file






Unless someone beats me too it I will add The ardruino IDE process later this evening or tomorrow morning.

Please if I am missing a step or something needs to be added please state it and lets work this up in a proper way. and I will continue to edit this top post for the current catch all how too.
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#4
Hi,
Has anyone tried this on the Mac? Are the instructions the same, but download the Mac package?

Thanks!

Clayton
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#5
My Noob Da Vinci Firmware Upgrade experience. Do this in order
I assume no responsability for anything related to this article.
1. Download and install the Arduino 1.0.5 drivers so Windows can see your Da Vinci 3D printer after you install the custom firmware. Here are the drivers
http://arduino.cc/en/main/software#toc3

2. Download and install Repetier software. It takes the place of the XYZware.
http://www.repetier.com/download/
The software is, Repetier-Host Windows .095F

3. Download the firmware for the printer.
https://github.com/bgm370/dav10/blob/381...inci10.bin

4. Remove all network cables and or wifi from your computer so the computer cannot connect in any way to the internet.

5. Retrieve and install the old version of XYZware (not the firmware) from your setup disk supplied with your printer. You need the old version on the disc to be able to update with the custom firmware.

6. Make sure your printer is on, start XYZware and click "about" to update the firmware and click "update" firmware.

7. You will get a warning that the network is un available, close it and a new window opens that you can search for your new firmware file. Search for the repetier-0.91-alpha-davinci10.bin file you downloaded and select it as the firmware you want to upgrade with.

8. After a few seconds your new firmware is installed to your printer. That's it for now for the printer.

9. Bed height issues.
The very first thing before attempting to print anything is to manually lower the bed height. ON YOUR PRINTER push the "OK" button and select "Quick Setting" and select "Home All". Once the print head "homes" itself, turn off your printer. This is done so you can easily move the print head to the four corners on the build platform. I had to lower the platform with the three bed screws before I could even move the print head on to the print bed. I adjusted all three screws so the extruder nozzle just touches the glass in all four corners of the glass. This should only be done after initially "homing" the print head as mentioned above. This gets the build table at its highest point where you fine tune the nozzle to glass clearance or lack of clearance.
With that done, turn the printer back on and push the "OK" button and select "Quick Setting" and select "Home All". You should now be safe to print with the proper clearance for the nozzle.

10. Start the Repetier program.

11. Everything else is covered in the above article.
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#6
Concerning print quality, I found that slowing everything down helped a lot. This can be done through the Slic3r "configuration" part of the repetier software.
Your initial prints will be offset in the Y axis. I do not know how to fix this yet so my "centered" prints are offset to the left by an inch or so. Nothing I have tried fixes this.

My bed temperatures are not even close to what the printer and the software say. I set the software to 90c and my bed is only 60c.
I raised the bed temperatures in repetier/slic3r configuration to 105c. I get bed adhesion on the models now.

I still cant get any real detail on the surface layer of my prints. My model has words on it and the words are currently just a smear of ABS. With my UP Mini printer the detail of the words on this model are perfect and readable so I know it can be done. One thing I am noticing is the extrusion multiplier of 105. This may be part of the problem with the detail.
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#7
Here's an issue for you.
After a 6 hour print, the printer finished and the (I am assuming) firmware locked up and the bed heater temperature rose to 243c or higher, its hard to say. It cracked the glass heater in a couple of spots. I had to turn the printer off since there was no response from the LCD.
Ok where's that thread that show how to revert back to the XYZ firmware?
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#8
Clayton wrote:

Hi,
Has anyone tried this on the Mac? Are the instructions the same, but download the Mac package?

Thanks!

Clayton

I wonder the same thing. One issue is the Mac version of XYZware won't prompt you to find your own firmware file when off line, mine just says it updated anyway despite disabling the network. I have PCs around so I will just try it with that for now.
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#9
I admit I'm in way over my head. I'm a school teacher doing this for my students (yes for me too, it's pretty cool).
I can't seem to be able to locate the actual firmware file after downloading it. no .bin, yes, i'm sure I'm doing it wrong. I get the repetier firmware zip and folders within but where's the file to point XYZware update to?
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#10
Quote:I admit I'm in way over my head. I'm a school teacher doing this for my students (yes for me too, it's pretty cool).
I can't seem to be able to locate the actual firmware file after downloading it. no .bin, yes, i'm sure I'm doing it wrong. I get the repetier firmware zip and folders within but where's the file to point XYZware update to?

Tried it after finding the .bin file but it says FW fail (or something like that) brought current firmware down to 1.1g (earliest I could find) but same error message. I admit I'm a babe in the woods. Don't know what you're supposed to do with the Arduino download even. Anyway, thinking of giving up the jailbreak for now and just trying to get the cartridge reset mod in place so I can get back to printing while teaching myself the jailbreak. Ulimately jailebreaking sounds good but the learning curve is too steep for me!
BTW I posted as anonymous a bit earlier, from another computer and if I was suppsed to start a new thread I apologize in advance, bit hard to post an issue when I don't even know what I'm doing to I'll just shut up and go back to researching and learning.
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#11
I would guess based on others accounts you are either tring this on the mac or are using a newer version of xyzware, IE not the version that came on the CD in the box.

Just install the arduino software for now. It will give the USB serial port drivers when you actually need them.
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#12
Was on my son's Windows computer at the time. No optical drive in it so downloaded XYZware just to try this out, apparently that gave a version of XYZ too new to use. Will try again. No idea how or even what you mean by "install arduino software" My head is swimming, need to back up a couple steps and learn more. I have Arduino on my machines and various "sketches" and such. I'll need to try to revert the XYZware and firmware back a couple notches and try again. No real rush, school year is winding down, have all summer to get my stuff straightened out for the kid's next year. Would probably be enough for now to zap the cartridges and get back to printing even if jailbreaking the whole printer is in the near future. There were "kits' for sale somewhere for cartridge reset but (oliver?) took that site down, or I just lost it.
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#13
there is a software repository thread here on the site with older versions of the software.

Install arduino software=install arduino IDE, newest version.

if you have arduino already it should be a simple task to make a re-setter

The kits were sold by a third party.
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#14
Thanks to all for your patience and willingness to share. Last night I finally convinced a junky old XP laptop to help install the repetier firmware. Repretier Host on both that XP machine (and more importantly my MacBook) see the printer. Have not tried printing as I have a world of bed leveling calibrations to perform but that seems doable. Then hopefully can commence printing via whatever software I want and with any filament I want, the way it should be. :blink:
What a brave new world.
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#15
Wow, I like the quantum mechanics background here
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#16
Chris, can you start a new thread and post close ups of the broken bed?

The extruder can definitely run away thermally, but the bed is a bit different. It essentially acts as a heat sink for a hot element, so there is a thermal limit the bed will reach regardless of what temperature it is set for. I'm reasonably certain it won't reach 500F with the stock power supply. Because the glass heats up relatively slow and even, thermal expansion and thermal shock shouldn't be issues unless you wet the build platform while it was hot. (?) It might be possible the touch point screws were to fight and thermal expansion crushed the glass, but then your break point should be right at a screw. Again, pictures would help.

Kieth
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#17
hello all,

flashed Da Vinci with Repetier, haven't tried printing yet but tried to set Z offset but am facing this problem :
Z fast position is working fine when I press up and down arrows, but position (fine position) doesn't work at all :-(
Both fast and fine position work with X and Y axis though.

Any idea someone??
Thanks
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#18
It's actually working but it's babystepping, something like 16 button presses for every .1mm you want to travel. That way you can make extremely small changed to the layer level before/during printing.
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#19
yes it does, thank you very much!
Now, does anybody have an idea on how to implement auto-calibration with XYZ Da Vinci and Repetier?
Thanks again!
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#20
I plan on looking into the auto leveling again now that I have my current major project out the door. BUT. I do not like the xyz leveling technique, as it is very easy to foutl the contacts on the extruder and the bed pads. That said I would really consider just moving the z to a known good height and jog over the bad and use paper as feeler gauge to leve at 3 points. rear right, rear left and front center, in that order. Use the z number you getas the - z offset in the eeprom config. As with everything else if I find the time this weekend I will do my best to get a video up.
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