I was able to flash the eeprom just fine, printer showed correct amount, but upon printing, the cartridge nozzle calibrates too close to the bed, causing printing defects. Tried downgrading to 1.1.G, no difference. Did I do something wrong, or are people having a similar problem? My other question, is with the EEPROM that people are posting, how do those get decoded for the arduino sketch?
I'm still new to the Ardiuno scene, so I'm sorry for any stupid questions.
Any help would be greatly appreciated
Hmm. Are you slicing through the XYZware or through Slic3r/RH/etc? If the former, I would do a calibration check. If the latter, check your Z position (on one of the tabs in Slice3r).
For the answer to how to do it, search this forum as there is a topic on it (I know because I had the same question)
I have calibrated to exact perfection, and used the internal prints like the keychain as test prints. I have my original print which was the first one ever off of the new printer. Have been through every troubleshooting technique given to me by "Charles Ung" with XYZ customer service, and am now replacing the whole unit because there was no solution. I hope it is a printer issue that will be resolved with the new unit, and not a problem caused by the print cartridge. But a new one is on it's way with no money out of my pocket, so we will see.
Any other details for future information would be great. I searched the forum, but maybe I'm just blind, but I wasn't really sure what I was looking for on how to fix the problem.
Thanks for any info
Dont take this wrong, but a few times you have asked for help but not allowed much time for response. While we often answer quickly, in this case you went from asking for help to exchanging the printer in about 2 hours. I understand wanting it to work, but the answer to the problem was probably more simple than changing the printer... You didn't answer all of the critical questions posed by Chris, so it is impossible to know for certain, but it seems it is a slicer issue.
I'm sorry for the quick responses previously, I was actually just looking for last minute advice from the community, because I had been troubleshooting the problem with "Charles Ung" from their customer service department, for almost a week prior to posting on here. I was just hoping that I could resolve the issue before the new unit was delivered. The new unit was recommended by Charles, and it turned out to be a faulty unit. New printer is online and printing beautifully.
I do appreciate the help that was given, and I didn't mean to be rude or sound like I was jumping the gun.
Thanks again for your help.
So they sent you a new printer?
Willing to donate the old one for sake of hackery and slight slashing?
It would prove most useful to the entire da vinici hacking community.
No worries Jason.
The thought is, when someone has a problem is in the interest of the community to work through it, because like all mass produced items you can bet you aren't alone. Since you are exchanging it, we don't get the luxury to fix it.
For those wondering what his problem was, I am strongly suspicious the pin on the extruder that touches the pads was to short. Also, if using another slicer the issue could be the z offset.
Sorry, I should have mentioned this earlier.
Someone on another forum had mentioned they disabled the auto calibration. Does anyone know how that's done or at the very least to erase the z-offset that's stored by the printer?
Even when I level the bed with respect to 'Home' the printer wants to add it's own (and very very wrong) Z-offset. My stored offset is 240 and I can't really figure out what that number means. According to XYZ's video on bed leveling the offset should be anywhere from 200-250 but some PDF documentation states that a homed extruder should be .2mm above the bed. When I home my extruder it's somwhere around 2.6mm *below* the bed.
This has led me to the process manually setting the extruder .038mm above the plate (using a feeler gauge) when Z=0 and then to add a -3.45mm offset in slicer to negate the printer's stored offset.
SKEstes - firmware and xyzware versions?
I am suspicious you have a corrupt firmware. You might try downloading both xyz/firmware and reinstalling both. Is just a guess, but If it was a physical problem it shouldnt be that far off.
Just throwing in here to say I'm having the same issue, except my stored offset is too high. No matter how many times I run calibration, it always puts the extruder tip 0.8mm above the bed surface. It can't lay down a flat bead of material--and therefore, I have no bed adhesion.
I abandoned the feeler gauge method and printed a HUGE raft. I'm chasing the extruder around and adjusting the bed so that I get a nice flat bead in all areas. Heck of a calibration routine...
Currently playing e-mail tag with Charles Ung at XYZprinting to see if he has anything enlightening regarding the situation. I'm suspecting that XYZ will just want to take back the printer and replace it.
Ar- can you please measure the height between the extruder and the nozzle, then the height between the extruder and calibration pin?
And please let us know exactly what firmware and xyz version you are using, and what (if any) physical adjustments you have made.
This should be a relatively easy fix, imo.
It was a tough fit for the calipers, so these values may not be as correct as I'd like, but they're really close. Extruder to nozzle is 29.5mm and extruder to probe is 29mm.
I measure .28mm (.011") difference in height, with the nozzle being shorter. This almost exactly corresponds to the height of the sensor pad from the glass bed. From your measurements It seems your difference is significantly more (.5mm)
Before adjusting the pin - in case your measurement is off - How about you manually calibrate the bed level before running calibration/printing? Move the pin over the set point pad. Then manually adjust the Z until a piece of paper just *barely* slides between the pin and the pad. Without adjusting the Z, make the paper respond the same way on the other pin>pad points. Then run calibration, store it, and try printing. If that doesn't work then repeat this process after downgrading the firmware. (I have noticed the firmwares appear to look for different calibration ranges.) If the extruder still starts too high then I would fall back to that measurement and consider adjusting the probe tip.
As a last ditch effort, If you are 1000% sure of the physical setup as per above. you could reset the micro and do a full erase followed by re installing the firmware, Be aware this resets the serial number and machine hours, and may effect warranty - but it should completely wipe the calibration data and give you a fresh start.
Honestly, just a guess, but I think the pin height differences are possibly greater than your measurements seem to indicate.
Keep us posted.
Quote:How about you manually calibrate the bed level before running calibration/printing? Move the pin over the set point pad. Then manually adjust the Z until a piece of paper just *barely* slides between the pin and the pad. Without adjusting the Z, make the paper respond the same way on the other pin>pad points. Then run calibration, store it, and try printing.
Didn't work. I downgraded back to firmware version 1.1.g and noticed that after the printer had updated and reset, XYZware said the firmware was "still updating." XYZware stayed like this for 15mins before I closed the program, as the printer itself was giving me the all-clear on the LCD. I switched between 1.1.g and 1.1.l a few times to see how repeatable this was, and it happens every single time. Thinking that XYZware might be corrupting my firmware, I downgraded to the prior version of the software
After that, I put this thing back to 1.1.g and ran calibration. Tested a print and the situation improved a little, but not enough--the nozzle is still slightly too far off the bed and adhesion is pretty bad. The profile of the bead it lays down is too cylindrical, not flattened down into the bed like first layers ought to be.
Feeler gauges confirm a 0.40mm gap between the nozzle and the bed surface.
Did you verify the height difference between the extruder and the measurement pin? It seems you need to adjust the pin. You could use the feeler gauges to double check the difference. While there is no published spec it seems the difference should be exactly the height of the measurement pads from the glass bed.
The best I could get with my feeler gauges (they are neither the best nor most complete set) was 0.46mm gap between pin and nozzle. The measurement pads being 0.5mm, I'd say this is really really close. The gap could even be closer to 0.5mm, as my gauges aren't in the greatest shape these days.
Feeler gauges will be a bit tough because you could inadvertently shift the spring mounts on the bed. Having said that you could manually position the extruder until it just barely touches the glass. Then measure the height of the pin to the glass. Are you sure it is the same as the pad height?
if it was a software issue we would (likely) all have this. (unless the eprom is somehow corrupt, in which case calibration and/or flashing/erasing should fix). I cant help but keep coming back to the physical setup of the measurement pin. The limit sensor, being optical, should be very accurate. Have you double checked the limit sensors to make sure they are firmly mounted and not moving around?
Another dumb thought - is the glass bed truly flat? If you place a straight edge from one pad to another you should measure the same height from the glass to the straight edge on all portions of the bed. (Does that make sense?)
for whats it's worth, a sheet of notebook paper is near enough to be exactly .005 inches.
Where would I be looking to find the limit sensors?
Well, it seems maybe I did a pretty poor job with the feeler gauge method. Here's something FAR more telling than that: