Thread Rating:
  • 0 Vote(s) - 0 Average
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Hardware Mods
#1
This thread will list hardware mods + hacks for the Da Vinci 1.0 printer.

If you are looking for Unmodded/Spare parts, have a look at the Da Vinci Spares Thread.

Try and keep posts to 1 mod/hack per post, properly named, so that any questions or queries can be easily referenced.
Please include relevant pics, and zip all attachments.

Lets keep the thread clean.
If you want to say thanks, hit the Thanks button.
If you want to discuss something specific about one of these parts, please open up a new thread in the User to User Support section
Reply
#2
Link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:305780

Description:
XYZ Printer Da Vinci 1.0 inside caps to help keep the inside clean.
They just drop in so they can be easily removed if needed to be.

Instructions: Print & Fit





[Image: before.jpg][Image: after.jpg][Image: cap.jpg]
Reply
#3
Link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:293623

Description:
Prints easy and snaps together by itself, no screws needed.
It's been very stable. If you have problems with it slipping on your surface just add 4 little self adhesive rubber feet on the bottom of the base.

Instructions:
Print the Base and the Sides with 20% infill and 2-3 perimeters. I have used 0.3mm Layer High for a quick 1 hour print.
The Axle can be printed with 10% infill to save material.



[Image: filament_stand_preview_featured.jpg][Image: holder_top_preview_featured.jpg]
Reply
#4
Link: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:302209

Description:
Here it is, the final version. Code-named XYZ999, it now has a cover and a push-switch (as per your wishes) Tongue. I will put the kit information and diagram at the usual place on wctek.com/xyz. Have fun, F3
UPDATE: the file named davinciV4b.STL has been modified for the new (small footprint) golden pins -- the 3 holes are smaller - try this one if the pins are too loose with the normal v4
UPDATE2: I've just added the "pro" version of this enclosure. The improvements are: 1) Stronger support clips (added reinforcements), 2) dual-color top cover (I use clear as the second color for the small rectangular window so that the arrow illuminates red when the programming button is pressed). This has the small pin holes, you may need to enlarge them with a needle if you're using your own pins.

Instructions: Print & Assemble






[Image: davinciV4b_preview_featured.jpg][Image: davinci4_cover_a__pro__preview_featured.jpg][Image: photo1_preview_featured.jpg]
Reply
#5
Here's an easy-peasy cartridge adapter made from some pogo pins I stole from an Epson cartridge resetter and a cable from an old stepper motor.
I didn't want to dedicate my only arduino (diecimila) to a cartridge resetter, so this was the no-cost option. The downside is it's a bit dangerous, as it is not keyed in any way, so you can't be doing any drunken cartridge resets!
Worked a treat! Thanks all for the work on the code.



[Image: cart_adapter.jpg]
Reply
#6
Dont have the time to mod the toshiba air, but also dont want to take a dremel to your Da Vinci's case?

Get one of these and some command strips.

http://www.dx.com/p/gps-sd-sdhc-card-rea...7AodxQ0A_Q

Simply remove the stock SD and plug in the "extension cable" and route the slot to the front of your printer. Wink
Reply
#7
Chenglung came up with this mod, using some packing plastic, cut to size.

His theory was that shimming the pulleys would reduce squeaking and increase print quality.
And apparently it works!









Kieth tried using thread, and apparently it works too.

[Image: 001.jpg][Image: 002.jpg][Image: 003.jpg][Image: 004.jpg]
Reply
#8
Hi guys,

Because I'm switching between Custom and Official firmware every two days (Not because I have issues, I'm doing tests), I got fed up with having to adjust the Z height.
Doing it in software when I change to Repetier always gives me 0.1-0.3mm differences.

So, I cut a printed clip, stuck it to where the Z endstop sensor interfaces with the bed, and voila.



You can use anything else you have on hand. A sticker, some opaque sticky tape. Be creative![Image: heatedbed.jpg]
Reply
#9
temp
Reply
#10
Simple design filament spool holder for Da Vinci Printer.

[Image: IMG_20140608_192026_preview_featured.jpg] https://forum.voltivo.com/images/Da_Vinc...Holder.zip
Reply
#11
Can you give a quick tutorial on how to respool the filament from a 1kg reel to one that fits inside the printer?
Is there something i need to make or print?
Reply
#12
Hello guys (And ladies...)

Recieved my DA vinci 3 weeks ago and immediatly stated looking for hacks and inprovments (Hardware and software).
First I would like to thank all of you for sharing your work and passion.
I followed each post of this Forum and got very usefull informations.
I enjoy my printer (My CNC too Wink) but mechanical design seems to be improved.

I've got issues with Y left carriage guidance (bushings).
The 2 bushings move and turn freely and are quite out of order. I does not seem IGUS quality ?
So got accuracy issues, vibrations, noize ...
I just red the post discribing the horrific design of the pulley bet tensioner...

I started to design a new printable Y (left) carriage which coul use the pulley tensioner med found in this forum and use 2 rods with 8mm linear bearings for bushing replacement.
Curruntly printing alpha2 carriage and second rod supports...

This design is just for testing purpose and will change in the next coming days.

Do you think this part may be usefull ?

(Sorry for my pour English)[Image: YleftaxisDaVincialpha.jpg]
Reply
#13
I have the same problem with the bronze bushings being loose. What I have found is that they should have been glued in place but were not. I'm thinking that they may have used loctite 620 or 638 to hold them in place. I have the same problem with the z axis bearings on the right side. For now I wrapped some masking tape around the bearings to take up the play.

I think the ultimate thing to do is replace the bearings with nice linear ball bearings like you have shown. The linear rods may also have to be replaced because the ones in my machine measure a little undersize of 8mm. Nice hardened and ground 8mm rods would be great with linear 8mm ball bearings. Should improve the printout to as good as an flashforge printer that one of my friends has.
Reply
#14
I've thought about working on the whole Z axis mechanism, but I'm worried about alignment putting it back in. I may be overthinking it, but to me, the rods need to be perfectly perpendicular to the X axis and I'm not really quite sure how I'd go about indicating that in.
Reply
#15
Yes, that part would be very usefull. I have the same problem right now. The bronze bushing definitely were glued in, but must have come loose at some point.
For the time beeing i wrapped them in some teflon tape i found in my toolbox and it seems to work (so far), but in the long run i would be very interested in replacing the bronze bushings with some ball bearings - if possible not only on the left Y carriage but everywhere else, too.
Have you made any progress with your carriage model? Is there any file i could use to print and test it (8mm bearings are already ordered)?
Reply
#16
A glance at the x and y axis bushings leads me to believe that they are glued in with this:

Three Bond 1401B

It's almost impossible to buy in the US. We got it from a Panasonic parts distributor as a service part where I work. It's good stuff, and it's methanol based, so it doesn't bother plastic parts. It's the same green (or red) stuff you find all over screws in products from Japan and China.

Just FYI.
Reply
#17
Hello there
I thought the cable that connects the motor to the X axis might break fairly quickly because of the going and coming from the extruder. So I picked a concept of Ultimaker to fit on Da Vinci.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:431420

All instructions are in the link but I can answer questions if there is a problem

If you have any suggestion for improvement you can try to do better Smile[Image: DSC_0030.jpg]
Reply
#18
hi,

i modded my davinci for a full metal coldend end and a jhead extruder

here are some pics

[url=http://postimage.org/image/uuf5w9uzp/"/>[/url]

link thinghyverse the x carriage i adapted from the ed extruder
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:495568

now i can use pla and other filament without any problem

when use the full metal cold end you need to reverse the extruder motor in the firmware
info on thinghyverse
Reply
#19
This is exactly what I'm looking for thank you!
Reply
#20
Hello

I will explain how to improve your print Smile

On the first image, one can see a wheel fixed on a metal rod. The problem is that there's often a slight play at the small metal rod.
To solve either you put glue, or it must everything apart and expand these small metal rods (which are hollow).
Add a Pulley Spacer (Post 395)

On the second picture it can print some two problems:
-At The motor, the threaded rod can oscillate and thus move the plate. It should loosen the 2 screws from the bottom to push up the shaft in the engine (without rubbing it) and tighten the screws so that the rod is straight. If it does not work you have to asseyer with the two screws from the top.
-On The 4 carrier holding the tray, There are often a movement , there also must be removed to add any pieces of paper goshawks of the stem. Otherwise it can paste the rods in the supports.

On the 3rd photos, bronze ring goshawks move the plastic bracket, stick them while avoiding to shed on the stem. Both rings are also present on the right side of the plate (A stick too)

It can print some glass tray that moves, block it with a piece of plastic items.

My impressions are really perfect now, before we really see the different layer and now it is the same quality as Makerbot Big Grin[Image: IMG_20140607_065042_display_large.jpg][Image: da-vinci-z-axis-motor.jpg][Image: davinci_offtrack.jpg]
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 2 Guest(s)