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Getting started with Repetier
There is lots of outdated information on loading repetier, and I found getting started a confusing process.
This post is the information that I wish I had known before starting, I hope it will make the process easier for others.

Do you want to install Repetier
Printing with XYZware is simple, and if you are happy with the print quality and don�t want to get involved with details, don�t load Repetier.
Why do you want Repetier?  Use of other filaments, control of temperatures and other process variables.  The down side of Repetier is that until you have found reasonable settings, you will not be happy with your print quality.

Loading Repetier firmware
Install Arduino 1.81, or whatever the latest is. Open Arduino, under Tools/Board choose Board Manager, select and download the Due files.  The additional files do not install in the Windows Program files directory, so when you install the two replacement files as per instructions in the firmware notes, you need to read the FAQ's in the firmware repository to find the right directory.

First steps
Having loaded Repetier into the Da Vinci, your first job is to set the Z axis zero postion, and level the bed.  Repetier uses auto levelling by default.  If it works for you, ignore the rest of this paragraph, otherwise turn it off in the printer's Settings menu and manually level the bed.  A word on the adjustment springs first.  If the springs are too loose, the bed will likely bounce, if they are too tight, you may have damage rather than the bed moving out of the way of the hotend if they come into contact.  So keeping that in mind, move the bed up so that it is just below the hotend height, and with the printer off, move the hotend over each of the 3 adjusting screws, and using a piece of paper between the hotend and the bed, adjust the screws so that you have similar tension on the paper in each of the 3 positions.
You will likely take a couple of iterations before you are happy with the results.  I subsequently did a print test to check for bed level.  If you wish to do so, proceed as follows.  Create a print one 0.3mm layer thick.  I created the outline of a square 100 x 100, with walls 5mm thick.  Put a feature at one corner so you know how the print came off the bed.
Load the print into Repetier host, and open the configuration for Slic3r.  Under Printer Settings, set the printer Z offset to 5mm. Do a dry run (checkbox under Manual Control in Rep. Host) with layer height set to 0.3mm in the slicer settings. Stop the print once the hotend is over the bed and check the distance between the hotend and the bed.  Adjust the Z offset accordingly, and retest.  You want a gap of 0.3mm between the bed and hotend for the print test.  Once you are happy, read the filament setting section below, and configure Slic3r for your filament.  Turn dry run off, and print.  Check the quality and height of the print so that it is an even height everywhere.  Repeat until happy.
Be warned, Repetier firmware (I am using 0.92.10) has a bug so that instructions that result in negative Z offsets are ignored, and the rest of the job continues, resulting in the hotend hitting the bed, or air printing.  This confused me initially, so I inserted a 15mm offset in the start g codes in Slic3r.  If you do that and the bed does not move down to that offset after the heating of the bed is complete, and before the hotend is warmed, cancel the job and work out what the problem is. This does not affect you once your settings are right.

Filament settings
My first prints with Repetier were horrible, so I have included some initial settings which will get you reasonable prints, but which you will want to tweak for optimal print quality.
There are 3 factors that you need to consider for each filament: Temperatures, Speeds and z offset.  Changing the infill pattern may also affect print quality.

Increase the z offset by 0.1mm from that which you used for the level test.
Temperatures 235C hotend and 95C for the bed.
Speeds  I used 50mm/s for most of the printing speeds

same as ABS.  Prints better than ABS with the stock nozzle.  

Jams in the stock nozzle, but prints beautifully until the jam.
Z offset +0.2mm from level test.
Speeds Most print speeds 30mm/s
Temperatures 245C and 75C

I have not tested

I am using the glue stick on the bed for all of the filaments that I have tested.

Changes to the printer
I want to use other filaments, PETG gives a very good print quality, with corners better defined than ABS, so I am going to change to an E3D hotend.  There is already have play in one of my Y axis bearings after 1 month, so I have decided to try using a bowden feed.  The lower moving mass reduces the forces on the support structure, hopefully giving better print quality and a longer printer life.  You can also increase the print speed with a bowden setup.
You will need a filament spool holder.  I based mine on a thingiverse object that fits into the U shaped slot on the back of the printer.  I angled the feed hole up by 30 degrees to minimise friction.  I think that having your spool mounted on bearings is a bad idea, as the spool will overrun, resulting in the filament jamming.
The Da Vinci 1.0A Y axis support shafts are too weak in my opinion. I think that this affects print quality, but it is a major project to change them.
Overall the Da Vinci is a good printer for the price.

Host software
Having to leave your computer tied to the printer while it prints, rapidly becomes painful.  I have attached a Raspberry Pi3 to the printer with Octoprint loaded.  Works well for me.  I also found that Slic3r has a gui under linux, which provides all the controls – other than print monitoring, that Repetier Host does.  I have now stopped using Repetier Host in favour of the above combination.

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